06-03-2023, 09:06 AM | #23 |
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I think ceramic can do a better job than wax at filling in small imperfections, last a little longer than wax while also provide a slightly slicker surface to prevent hurting the paint. However, I still prefer the glow or warmth you get from carnuba wax. Ceramic isn’t bad and does allow depth and clarity but the thing to remember when you see all these ceramic coating photos is 90+% of the time the paint has been corrected first. So I’d argue you’ll get nearly the same result if you follow a similar process for wax.
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06-03-2023, 02:40 PM | #24 | |
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06-03-2023, 09:48 PM | #25 |
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I used Ceramic for the first time about 2 years ago. This weekend I went back over the paint, clayed, polished and reapplied ceramic. This time when I clay barred, I noticed a huge difference. The paint felt like it was clean. There was hardly a need to clay bar. I'm a believer in it for sure. I'd say it's probably a good idea to redo the horizontal surfaces more frequently because they are the first to lose the hydroscopic qualities, but it's pretty amazing to me, personally, how well it holds up. I used the Sonnex kit. Might try something different next time.
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06-03-2023, 10:00 PM | #26 |
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i was a long time user of menzerna powerlock. switched to ceramic (a few different brands) and never looked back. ceramic lasts much longer, which much better hydrophobic properties. that being said nothing has ever outshined my auto finesse wax.
my current protection is adams graphene ceramic topped wirh turtle was flex wax. shine and longevity!
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06-04-2023, 08:54 PM | #27 |
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If one just wants protection…. Youd be surprised how resilient finish kare 1000p and collinite 476 are. Get a couple layers of that on your car and youre likely good for the better part of a year.
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06-05-2023, 12:57 PM | #28 |
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I too have gone to the dark side. I've loved using carnauba over the years; love the application/wipe, smell, "glow".
But the durability/longevity of ceramic, the self cleaning/water beading and super shine/gloss are just too good. And it's not like you have to spend big $ anymore, even a $50-$60 bottle now will last a year or 2. But I agree with the above, the look is mostly down to the paint prep beforehand, no matter what LSP you use. I was a bit deflated, actually, after my first application of a true ceramic because the car didn't look way better than it did with polishing and wax. It does look better, mind, just not as much as I led myself to believe I guess. It's more about the protection/water behavior, self cleaning for me. Slightly better optics is just a little bonus.
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06-15-2023, 10:53 PM | #30 | |
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Ceramic coating for a car that's not fully PPF'd is a pretty wasteful move, here's why:
And before anyone says "Ceramic has chemical properties you don't understand ...": yes I do understand them, I know what polydimethylsiloxane is, I know you can buy it for super cheap on Amazon and no I don't think it's useless or snake oil, it's just the very wrong tool for the job 99.9% of people are trying to accomplish. I ceramic coat my wheels; great stuff! The right tool for that job. I don't ceramic coat my paint because it's the wrong tool for that job. Ceramic's core benefit is durability, i.e., multi-year. But that benefit is obviated by applying a water-based sealant 3-4x/year since the objective is a hydrophobic sacrificial layer. And finally, unless you're good at washing your car and do it every 2-3 weeks OR you have your detailer do it, in 1 month a ceramic coated car will look just as crappy as a non-ceramic coated car. So what's the answer? * Do a good strip wash * Chemical de-con * Wipe down with panel wipe, i.e., IPA or something like Car Pro Eraser * Apply a great water-based sealant like Turtle Wax Seal-n-Shine or spend 4x on some water-based hybrid/ceramic/graphene/nuclear brand name thingy You'll get the EXACT same results as a $3,000+ ceramic coating and won't be upset in 2 years when you have to polish with your baller setup that was still way cheaper than 1 pro-coat.
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Last edited by GrussGott; 06-15-2023 at 11:01 PM.. |
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