[Westside Guy]

Originally Posted by ChargerHellcat

I went with STEK after several members swear Xpel clear would effect the sheen. I can honestly tell you from STEK. I can't tell the difference. But these chips happens, I have it on my side doors already and even my STEK ppf has gotten hit with chips. But I drive like a maniac privately so your mileage may vary.

If you have a frozen paint finish the PPF product to use from them is Xpel’s Stealth and not their Ultimate Plus which is clear.

https://www.xpel.com/products/paint-...n-film/stealth

At the shop where they did my PPF work I have seen several frozen paint jobs with Stealth applied and they look great.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Westside Guy

If you have a frozen paint finish the PPF product to use from them is Xpel’s Stealth and not their Ultimate Plus which is clear.

https://www.xpel.com/products/paint-...n-film/stealth

At the shop where they did my PPF work I have seen several frozen paint jobs with Stealth applied and they look great.

This is true, but what's the point of putting Stealth PPF over frozen paint? I mean, don't you get nearly the same effect by using a non-frozen paint with Stealth PPF?

I realize that it's the only type of film you can use to preserve the matte appearance, but why pay for frozen paint if you're gonna pay 6k to wrap it in a translucent film anyway. I would probably either not PPF frozen paint or just order regular paint and use the Stealth film.

[MJBO]

Originally Posted by chris719

This is true, but what's the point of putting Stealth PPF over frozen paint? I mean, don't you get nearly the same effect by using a non-frozen paint with Stealth PPF?

I realize that it's the only type of film you can use to preserve the matte appearance, but why pay for frozen paint if you're gonna pay 6k to wrap it in a translucent film anyway. I would probably either not PPF frozen paint or just order regular paint and use the Stealth film.

Yes you get the some effect putting stealth over gloss paint. Not quite sure what gloss on a Frozen paint would look like, but certainly wouldn’t look Frozen anymore.

My Black Sapphire Metallic wrapped with stealth PPF looks just like Frozen Black.

[Westside Guy]

Originally Posted by chris719

This is true, but what's the point of putting Stealth PPF over frozen paint? I mean, don't you get nearly the same effect by using a non-frozen paint with Stealth PPF?

I realize that it's the only type of film you can use to preserve the matte appearance, but why pay for frozen paint if you're gonna pay 6k to wrap it in a translucent film anyway. I would probably either not PPF frozen paint or just order regular paint and use the Stealth film.

I agree that putting the Stealth PPF on non frozen paint should give you the same effect and you save a few grand by not paying extra for the frozen paint finish that you can then put towards the cost of the PPF.

You can also get the frozen look on many more colors that what is offered by BMW. .

[MJBO]

Originally Posted by Westside Guy

You can also get the frozen look on many more colors that what is offered by BMW. .

Better result in some cases too.

Aus member had “Frozen Orange” which frankly looked like a dark red. Compare that to stealth Fire Orange, and there is no comparison, the latter looks epic!

https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1#post30161891

[David70]

Originally Posted by Westside Guy

I agree that putting the Stealth PPF on non frozen paint should give you the same effect and you save a few grand by not paying extra for the frozen paint finish that you can then put towards the cost of the PPF.

You can also get the frozen look on many more colors that what is offered by BMW. .

I agree. I'm not following the point in paying extra for frozen paint which is harder to maintain, then immediately covering all of it with PPF because it is harder to maintain. Frozen paint option plus full PPF costs $8k more than one of the 8 standard/cheap option paints? With eventually selling it, only way for new buyer to be sure of the condition of the paint is to remove the PPF?

My next door neighbor bought a frozen MB recently & I wondered about it so just read these 6 pages of posts. Best I can tell, any polish/swirl added accidently or any scratch is almost impossible to remove (without repaint) & everything I have gotten pretty good at over the years using polish/wet sanding on a normal gloss finish is worthless with the matte finish?

Will be interesting to see what these cars look like in 10 years. Seems no "paint correction" possible which I have gotten pretty good at, taking an older car paint, poorly maintained & making it look far better. From what I understand I wouldn't buy a 10 year old M with this paint.

[hubbahubba]

Is there any worry about using a clay bar on frozen paint?

[ChargerHellcat]

Originally Posted by 91blksi

Tried Dr Beasley matte paint cleanser, it didn’t remove the white water spots out of my frozen black paint…can someone recommend another product ?

I had massive water spots on my frozen paint due to waiting for a chip shortage at a port. My detail guy use a water spot remover for Gtechniq and it came right off. This was after I had done two hand wash on my car and the stains scared the shit out of me. I hope that helps.

[John in VA]

Originally Posted by hubbahubba

Is there any worry about using a clay bar on frozen paint?

Clay bar can mar the paint on a clear-coated car - I'd skip it on a matte finish without talking to a paint profsional first.

[hubbahubba]

Originally Posted by John in VA

Clay bar can mar the paint on a clear-coated car - I'd skip it on a matte finish without talking to a paint profsional first.

Thank you!

[91blksi]

Originally Posted by ChargerHellcat

I had massive water spots on my frozen paint due to waiting for a chip shortage at a port. My detail guy use a water spot remover for Gtechniq and it came right off. This was after I had done two hand wash on my car and the stains scared the shit out of me. I hope that helps.

Looking into it right now thanks !

Just ordered..keep u posted

[91blksi]

For minor scratches and scuffs

Dr Beasley’s Matte Final Finish

[NickyC]

Surprised I missed this thread. I applied the BMW nano wax to my FDB2 F82 CS last month and absolutely loved the outcome. Took me awhile to apply it of course since you can't use a buffer, but it gave the car just a hint of shine while making the color look extremely lush I think. Water really beads up on the car now, the stuff is pretty thick.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by NickyC

Took me awhile to apply it of course since you can't use a buffer, but it gave the car just a hint of shine while making the color look extremely lush I think.

FFS, that's kinda gorgeous.

[NickyC]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

FFS, that's kinda gorgeous.

Thanks, I do love her so. The best part is all of the friendly people asking me about the car constantly when I'm out and about. I always take the time to talk and share the car as much as possible.

[91blksi]

Originally Posted by ChargerHellcat

I had massive water spots on my frozen paint due to waiting for a chip shortage at a port. My detail guy use a water spot remover for Gtechniq and it came right off. This was after I had done two hand wash on my car and the stains scared the shit out of me. I hope that helps.

Tried it didn’t work

[Pawtato]

Originally Posted by JoeyM4

You have to use a good foamer. I use Griot.

Could you share what ratio you use to mix the matte body wash in the foam cannon?

[Pawtato]

Originally Posted by FISH22

I use the CG stuff only for foaming. The actual wash bucket gets the Dr Beasley’s soap. This is just my method. I could probably switch completely to CG soap for the whole wash though.

Originally Posted by FISH22

Recent video from Dr Beasley’s. Love these guys.

So in DB’s guide there are two methods:
(1) initial rinse, then foam with cannon where the wheels are also cleaned as the foam dwell, then the foam gets rinsed off. Second stage of foam gets applied from foam cannon and the washing begins, no bucket.
(2) no foam cannon, makes suds in buckets and wash with two buckets method.

Sounds like you combine the two, which I think is a common practice:
(3) initial rinse, then foam with cannon and allow it to soak/dwell, then the foam gets rinsed off. Make suds in wash bucket, then apply the second round of foam from cannon, perform two bucket method wash. Correct?

In this case, do you use Chemical Guys shampoo only during the first foam stage and perform two bucket wash without applying second round of foam? Or do you use it for both stages, and mix the CG shampoo foam from cannon with DB body wash foam from bucket during washing?

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by Pawtato

So in DB’s guide there are two methods:
(1) initial rinse, then foam with cannon where the wheels are also cleaned as the foam dwell, then the foam gets rinsed off. Second stage of foam gets applied from foam cannon and the washing begins, no bucket.
(2) no foam cannon, makes suds in buckets and wash with two buckets method.

Sounds like you combine the two, which I think is a common practice:
(3) initial rinse, then foam with cannon and allow it to soak/dwell, then the foam gets rinsed off. Make suds in wash bucket, then apply the second round of foam from cannon, perform two bucket method wash. Correct?

In this case, do you use Chemical Guys shampoo only during the first foam stage and perform two bucket wash without applying second round of foam? Or do you use it for both stages, and mix the CG shampoo foam from cannon with DB body wash foam from bucket during washing?

That’s right, #3 is the way. And yes, both foam stages would be with CG, so mixed with the DB bucket soap towards the end.

One adjustment I’ve made on my new car (CT5-V Blackwing / gloss black), is applying the first foam stage BEFORE any rinse. I’ve been reading a lot that applying a pressure washer directly to a heavily dirty car can actually induce damage as the stuck on grime gets pulled away. The first foam stage loosens all of this before hitting the dirty surface with a pressure washer.

[Pawtato]

Originally Posted by FISH22

That’s right, #3 is the way. And yes, both foam stages would be with CG, so mixed with the DB bucket soap towards the end.

Thanks for the confirmation.

Originally Posted by FISH22

One adjustment I’ve made on my new car (CT5-V Blackwing / gloss black), is applying the first foam stage BEFORE any rinse. I’ve been reading a lot that applying a pressure washer directly to a heavily dirty car can actually induce damage as the stuck on grime gets pulled away. The first foam stage loosens all of this before hitting the dirty surface with a pressure washer.

It’s interesting that you mention this change, because:

[FISH22]

Originally Posted by Pawtato

It’s interesting that you mention this change, because:

I’m assuming they’re saying rinse first as in don’t go straight into washing/contacting the paint?

I see the value in foaming first and dwelling before the actual first rinse. A similar concept of lots of detailers using a persoak. A presoak is the very first thing to hit the paint, before any pre rinse. I’m seeing this becoming the norm more and more.

I’m also more OCD about this now as black raven (GM) is a uni, so no metallic to hide imperfections.

I will say, I only do this prefoam when the car is heavily soiled. 2+ weeks no wash, daily use.

[Pawtato]

Originally Posted by FISH22

I’m assuming they’re saying rinse first as in don’t go straight into washing/contacting the paint?

I see the value in foaming first and dwelling before the actual first rinse. A similar concept of lots of detailers using a persoak. A presoak is the very first thing to hit the paint, before any pre rinse. I’m seeing this becoming the norm more and more.

I’m also more OCD about this now as black raven (GM) is a uni, so no metallic to hide imperfections.

I will say, I only do this prefoam when the car is heavily soiled. 2+ weeks no wash, daily use.

Yeah, I kinda forgot about that conversation and your comment just reminded me of it, maybe I should ask them for clarification.

On top of potential damages from the initial rinsing with a pressure washer, if any, I suppose the water will also dilute the foam a bit to make the the first dwelling less effective. Although I’ve also read elsewhere that the foam typically doesn’t do much work at all just sitting on top of the paint without any contact washing. I guess it still helps in cases where the car is heavily soiled.

I feel like metallic black is already painful to maintain for a constant clean appearance, is uni finish worse? You can’t even pretend the dusts are glitters 🫣😂