[BKSinAZ]

I want do this myself and think I've decided to use CQUARTZ. I hope it is a good choice.

My car is a new 3 week old 2022 430i in Tanzanite Blue.

When going to carpro.com or Autogeek, there are a few kits. However each CQUART kit is different. Some kits have only the CQUARTZ with cloth and applicator, some kits also have a Reload product, while other kits contain other chemicals.

When watching "how to videos", those videos seem to be marketing 10 different products to prep the car, many seem to just wipe off the previously applied product. The marketing hype is confusing.

So I'm asking what do I really need to buy and what is just fluff?
I also would like to do the windows, wheels and calipers

Respectfully,
Bryan in Tucson

[njfoses]

Originally Posted by BKSinAZ

I want do this myself and think I've decided to use CQUARTZ. I hope it is a good choice.

My car is a new 3 week old 2022 430i in Tanzanite Blue.

When going to carpro.com or Autogeek, there are a few kits. However each CQUART kit is different. Some kits have only the CQUARTZ with cloth and applicator, some kits also have a Reload product, while other kits contain other chemicals.

When watching "how to videos", those videos seem to be marketing 10 different products to prep the car, many seem to just wipe off the previously applied product. The marketing hype is confusing.

So I'm asking what do I really need to buy and what is just fluff?
I also would like to do the windows, wheels and calipers

Respectfully,
Bryan in Tucson

To back up a step, you will need to perform at least a 1 step paint correction before applying any ceramic coating.

[Bobh59]

Originally Posted by njfoses

To back up a step, you will need to perform at least a 1 step paint correction before applying any ceramic coating.

And a full decon wash - bug/tar & iron fallout. Then clay, then 1-step polish with quality pads (BOSS, Lake Country, etc.) and lots of them. Or clean them frequently.

If you use a product like CarPro Essence it will prep the surface for the coating saving a step, plus you don't have to touch the paint again after polishing. And while I haven't seen your paint, you should get great results with this and say a BOSS orange or yellow pad.

Applying the coating is easy but it's all in the prep work. The fact that your car is only 3 weeks old is not relevant either, the same steps have to be done. I've seen 5-10 year old used cars in much better shape than new cars.

Personally I would use Gyeon Mohs Evo which is a 3 year coating, 4 if you apply Skin. I prefer it without Skin but there's no right or wrong.

I would also have different types of high quality MF towels at the ready because coatings & polishes can be particular in what type of towel works best.

You didn't mention what polishers you own or may have access to, but you should have one that can handle 2-3" pads, not just one for 5.5"/6.5".

[BKSinAZ]

Originally Posted by njfoses

To back up a step, you will need to perform at least a 1 step paint correction before applying any ceramic coating.

Which step do you recommend?

[njfoses]

Originally Posted by BKSinAZ

Which step do you recommend?

The post by bobh nailed it.

[BKSinAZ]

Originally Posted by Bobh59

And a full decon wash - bug/tar & iron fallout. Then clay, then 1-step polish with quality pads (BOSS, Lake Country, etc.) and lots of them. Or clean them frequently.

If you use a product like CarPro Essence it will prep the surface for the coating saving a step, plus you don't have to touch the paint again after polishing. And while I haven't seen your paint, you should get great results with this and say a BOSS orange or yellow pad.

Applying the coating is easy but it's all in the prep work. The fact that your car is only 3 weeks old is not relevant either, the same steps have to be done. I've seen 5-10 year old used cars in much better shape than new cars.

Personally I would use Gyeon Mohs Evo which is a 3 year coating, 4 if you apply Skin. I prefer it without Skin but there's no right or wrong.

I would also have different types of high quality MF towels at the ready because coatings & polishes can be particular in what type of towel works best.

You didn't mention what polishers you own or may have access to, but you should have one that can handle 2-3" pads, not just one for 5.5"/6.5".

I have a porter cable random orbital model 7424xp. Appears to have a 2.5 or 3 inch velcro head along with a 5.5 inch screw in or bolt in head.

I have a dozen micro fiber towels. How many pads do you recommend?

Just watched several old video reviews about how good Gyeon Mohs Evo was compared to CQUARTZ.

[Bobh59]

Originally Posted by BKSinAZ

I have a porter cable random orbital model 7424xp. Appears to have a 2.5 or 3 inch velcro head along with a 5.5 inch screw in or bolt in head.

I have a dozen micro fiber towels. How many pads do you recommend?

Just watched several old video reviews about how good Gyeon Mohs Evo was compared to CQUARTZ.

Mohs Evo and Blackfire are the two easiest coatings to work with that I've used and are an absolute pleasure to work with. And the last thing you want after a day or two of prep work is to have to fight with a coating. I've had very mixed results with Cquartz but I'm in the minority so it's probably a process error on my part.

I'm old school in most things and always want to work clean, so I'll change pads after a couple of sections/panels rather than clean them so I may use 6-10+ on a vehicle. Overkill probably but's it's just my way. I also don't have an air compressor. You could get away with 4, clean two and toss them in the dryer and they'll be ready by the time you're done with the other two.

I'm "assuming" you don't have an air compressor but if you do that works great to clean them in a matter of seconds.

For claying on your 3 week old car I would use a fine clay with tons of lube, then gently glide the clay over the paint.

If you decide to use Essence (not Essence Plus) it's a little different than most polishes. It has a fairly long work time and does not have to be removed right away. In fact you could do the whole care before removing, and my experience has been that it comes off best if you give it some dwell time. Awesome product too.

[BKSinAZ]

Originally Posted by Bobh59

Mohs Evo and Blackfire are the two easiest coatings to work with that I've used and are an absolute pleasure to work with. And the last thing you want after a day or two of prep work is to have to fight with a coating. I've had very mixed results with Cquartz but I'm in the minority so it's probably a process error on my part.

I'm old school in most things and always want to work clean, so I'll change pads after a couple of sections/panels rather than clean them so I may use 6-10+ on a vehicle. Overkill probably but's it's just my way. I also don't have an air compressor. You could get away with 4, clean two and toss them in the dryer and they'll be ready by the time you're done with the other two.

I'm "assuming" you don't have an air compressor but if you do that works great to clean them in a matter of seconds.

For claying on your 3 week old car I would use a fine clay with tons of lube, then gently glide the clay over the paint.

I do have a smaller 5 gallon craftsman air compressor
Plan on using McGuires M210 with the Lake pads you recommended. Will also use McGuires fine clay. I am trying to figure out the color of pad.... not sure if I should do a tiny bit of cutting.
Currently I am undecided between Gyeon Mohs Evo and CQUARTZ. My concern with Gyeon is that their "cure" coating, I heard, needs reapplying VERY frequently compared to CQUARTZ "Gliss".

Anyhow, I appreciate your replies and look forward to your opinions.

[ultrared93]

Originally Posted by Bobh59

For claying on your 3 week old car I would use a fine clay with tons of lube, then gently glide the clay over the paint.

Another way to simplify the process is to use a clay mitt or clay towel during one of the wet decon steps. I usually do it while I wash the car or with the iron (fallout) remover. Don't forget your nitrile gloves and don't let the iron remover dry on the surface.

[ultrared93]

Originally Posted by BKSinAZ

Plan on using McGuires M210 with the Lake pads you recommended.

Another highly regarded polish is Perfect Finish from Sonax. This will provide a mild cut when used with a cutting pad (if the paint already has some swirls) and just enhances the gloss when used with a finishing pad.

Nothing against Meguiars products - I still have some in my arsenal.

[BKSinAZ]

Originally Posted by ultrared93

Another way to simplify the process is to use a clay mitt or clay towel during one of the wet decon steps. I usually do it while I wash the car or with the iron (fallout) remover. Don't forget your nitrile gloves and don't let the iron remover dry on the surface.

Is a fall out remover the same as a decon? Car is new with zero swerls.

Maybe my steps should be
Wash
Clay and lube
One step Polish
Wipe off with Alcohol dilution 3 parts water to one part Alcohol
Ceramic base
Ceramic topper

What you all think?

[Bobh59]

Originally Posted by BKSinAZ

I do have a smaller 5 gallon craftsman air compressor
Plan on using McGuires M210 with the Lake pads you recommended. Will also use McGuires fine clay. I am trying to figure out the color of pad.... not sure if I should do a tiny bit of cutting.
Currently I am undecided between Gyeon Mohs Evo and CQUARTZ. My concern with Gyeon is that their "skin" coating, I heard, needs reapplying VERY frequently compared to CQUARTZ "Gliss".

Anyhow, I appreciate your replies and look forward to your opinions.

Skin is optional. You can buy Mohs Evo by itself or the Syncro package which includes Skin. It's supposed to take away a little slickness but add a little gloss/depth but Tanzanite is a real head turner on its own. Skin is supposed to last a year but we all know durability depends upon many factors. Plus a topcoat is essentially a topcoat so there's nothing preventing you from using Gliss or other topcoats over Evo.

You can get a little cut from the polish, the pad or both. It sounds like your paint is in the condition 3 week old paint should be in so M210 might not need any assistance. Easy enough to find out though with test spots.

[ultrared93]

Originally Posted by BKSinAZ

Is a fall out remover the same as a decon?

Fallout removal is only part of a decon. Decontamination is the removal of everything on the painted surface that does not belong there. This includes fallout (mostly iron particles from the air, your brakes, etc.), sap and tar, and of course embedded dirt that normal washing can't remove. Decon is usually broken down into chemical (e.g., iron, tar or sap remover) and mechanical via clay.

[BKSinAZ]

Is there a difference between polish vs. Glaze? I wanted to use Meguiars M210 polish, but when looking at product, it says polish glaze.
Keep in mind that the car is 3-4 weeks old with no swirls.

[Bobh59]

Originally Posted by BKSinAZ

Is there a difference between polish vs. Glaze? I wanted to use Meguiars M210 polish, but when looking at product, it says polish glaze.
Keep in mind that the car is 3-4 weeks old with no swirls.

You're good to go. Here's a short thread on Autogeek - https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...5-vs-m210.html

[Insane435]

I have done ceramic on my G20 and a few other BMWs.

the paint is hard and will likely need a 2 step correction to get it right.

my steps:

wash car
chemical decon
mechanical decon
rinse and dry
correct paint with maguaris m100 and mf pads
IPA wipe down
polish paint with sonax perfect finish using a middle of the road polish pad. it cant be too fine or it wont work.
wash and dry car again
apply ceramic

[Bobh59]

Originally Posted by Insane435

I have done ceramic on my G20 and a few other BMWs.

the paint is hard and will likely need a 2 step correction to get it right.

my steps:

wash car
chemical decon
mechanical decon
rinse and dry
correct paint with maguaris m100 and mf pads
IPA wipe down
polish paint with sonax perfect finish using a middle of the road polish pad. it cant be too fine or it wont work.
wash and dry car again
apply ceramic

So have I, but OP stated that his 3 week old paint is in good condition (swirl free) so all he needs to really do is a proper decon, wash & clay, and then a quick polish which in this case is more to make sure the surface is perfectly clean so the coating can bond properly.

A 2-step is overkill in this situation. Plus I'm a big believer in removing as little clearcoat as possible because that is the best protection.

[BKSinAZ]

Originally Posted by Bobh59

So have I, but OP stated that his 3 week old paint is in good condition (swirl free) so all he needs to really do is a proper decon, wash & clay, and then a quick polish which in this case is more to make sure the surface is perfectly clean so the coating can bond properly.

A 2-step is overkill in this situation. Plus I'm a big believer in removing as little clearcoat as possible because that is the best protection.

It's 110 degrees here in Tucson, waiting for weather to cool down before starting project which will be middle of October. Better for polishing.

Anyhow, this should be last question on this subject...
Should I use McGuires #9 instead of the m210? The #9 is slightly less abrasive than the m210. I tried to google my questions, but there are no comparisons between #9 and m210.

The info I was able to locate: on a scale of 0 to 12, the abrasive is 3.5 with the m210 and abrasive is 3.0 with #9, but not sure if .5 percent less abrasive will produce more gloss and depth or which is easier to use. Your opinion?