[sspade]

Originally Posted by Never_Enough

Just get the HF low profile jack, stop wasting $

Finally, someone speaks with sense. Its absolutely amazing to me how people feel "safer" and sleep better at night because they wasted money on a brand name jack and jack stands. They all do the same thing and are tested and proven to be safe.

The only reason you might need a higher quality jack is if you were using it professionally, day in day out. Then you may wear out a HF unit quicker... but wait a minute dont they have life time warranty on all their tools?!

Right... so there's absolutely no reason to spend more money for a label. Its idiotic.

Jack stands with special lifting points made for a BMW would be an exception for convenience but certain not safer by any means.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by withoutink

Hi Guys,

I ended up buying a pair of Esco 10499 with the standard tops + a set of extra posts with the pivot blocks... from Reverse Logic

I am looking at the Arcan XL2T floor jack - https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-XL2T-Bl...dp/B007G83T16/

Thoughts on any others?

Keep in mind I have a lift so I really have no dog in this fight, but JUST because I love you guys (and I wanted to finally settle this) I just went out with my tape rule and laid down in the wet grass and measured the distance of the RWD chassis E90 front center jack point location relative to the bumper lip. It's approximately 32 inches (I'd call it 35 just to be safe). The Blackhawk 29023 long-reach floor jack I posted earlier looks like it will reach the center jack point and easily allow pumping of the handle.

I looked at the specs of the HF low profile jack and it's total length is just 20", so it would be a waste of money to get IMO. My advice to anyone getting new lifting equipment for the E90 is to get the proper flat-top jack stands (4 each) and a long-reach low profile floor jack. A 2-ton unit is far more than adequate since the weight of the heaviest E90 is not more than 3,500 pounds, which is well within the jack's lifting capacity. I'm not sure why people get hung up on the weight of a floor jack... it's a floor jack.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by sspade

Finally, someone speaks with sense. Its absolutely amazing to me how people feel "safer" and sleep better at night because they wasted money on a brand name jack and jack stands. They all do the same thing and are tested and proven to be safe.

The only reason you might need a higher quality jack is if you were using it professionally, day in day out. Then you may wear out a HF unit quicker... but wait a minute dont they have life time warranty on all their tools?!

Right... so there's absolutely no reason to spend more money for a label. Its idiotic.

Jack stands with special lifting points made for a BMW would be an exception for convenience but certain not safer by any means.

Yet we all drive BMWs...

[sspade]

Until my car was lowered, this jack worked absolutely fine for my F30 and it only has a 16" handle.

The harbor freight has a 45" handle.

Do you guys like to stand on the other side of the room when you jack up your car?!

[sspade]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Keep in mind I have a lift so I really have no dog in this fight, but JUST because I love you guys (and I wanted to finally settle this) I just went out with my tape rule and laid down in the wet grass and measured the distance of the RWD chassis E90 front center jack point location relative to the bumper lip. It's approximately 32 inches (I'd call it 35 just to be safe). The Blackhawk 29023 long-reach floor jack I posted earlier looks like it will reach the center jack point and easily allow pumping of the handle.

I looked at the specs of the HF low profile jack and it's total length is just 20", so it would be a waste of money to get IMO. My advice to anyone getting new lifting equipment for the E90 is to get the proper flat-top jack stands (4 each) and a long-reach low profile floor jack. A 2-ton unit is far more than adequate since the weight of the heaviest E90 is not more than 3,500 pounds, which is well within the jack's lifting capacity. I'm not sure why people get hung up on the weight of a floor jack... it's a floor jack.

Why would the length of the actual jack matter?! (Its 27" by the way, not 20")

It absolutely does not, your logic is flawed.

Its the total length that matters.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Keep in mind I have a lift so I really have no dog in this fight, but JUST because I love you guys (and I wanted to finally settle this) I just went out with my tape rule and laid down in the wet grass and measured the distance of the RWD chassis E90 front center jack point location relative to the bumper lip. It's approximately 32 inches (I'd call it 35 just to be safe). The Blackhawk 29023 long-reach floor jack I posted earlier looks like it will reach the center jack point and easily allow pumping of the handle.

I looked at the specs of the HF low profile jack and it's total length is just 20", so it would be a waste of money to get IMO. My advice to anyone getting new lifting equipment for the E90 is to get the proper flat-top jack stands (4 each) and a long-reach low profile floor jack. A 2-ton unit is far more than adequate since the weight of the heaviest E90 is not more than 3,500 pounds, which is well within the jack's lifting capacity. I'm not sure why people get hung up on the weight of a floor jack... it's a floor jack.

^ This is completely incorrect.

The HF low profile floor jack has a total length of about 73" - certainly long enough to reach the central jack point on any BMW.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Yet we all drive BMWs...

Are you saying that the only reason people buy BMW's is for brand prestige?

What you indicated is the same as saying a Honda is the same as a BMW other than price... remember, we were talking about all jacks doing the same thing.

More flawed logic. You're batting a thousand this morning!

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by sspade

^ This is completely incorrect.

The HF low profile floor jack has a total length of about 73" - certainly long enough to reach the central jack point on any BMW.

Product weight is 73 pounds... Product length is 27", but the saddle is about 20 inches, nowhere near long enough to reach the center jack point on a E9X, even at a stock non-sport package suspension height.

[overcoil]

This is a great jack https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...ACHyd1_pg4.htm

The actual weight off the jack is important because if you store the jack in a basement with steps or plan to transport the jack in a vehicle an all steel jack may be too heavy to maneuver.

As far as the jack rating, the biggest failure issue with jacks seems to be gradual leak down while under pressure, so a higher rating by weight jack is thought to be more resistant to hydraulic fluid blowing by the seal.

As far as reach and lowered cars, read the description for this jack- http://www.acjacks.com/acjacks_003.htm

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by sspade

Are you saying that the only reason people buy BMW's is for brand prestige?

What you indicated is the same as saying a Honda is the same as a BMW other than price... remember, we were talking about all jacks doing the same thing.

More flawed logic. You're batting a thousand this morning!

The jack I suggest costs $300 because it offers far more capability to lift a far broader range of vehicles than the HF model. So, that's a far better level of performance, because it is more useful.

And yes, my opinion is the vast majority of BMW owners (leasers) have the brand because of the perceived prestige of the Roundel on the hood. Following and considering your train of thought regarding the usefulness of floor jacks vs. brand-name, as basic transportation, BMWs are a complete waste of money.

[sspade]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

The jack I suggest costs $300 because it offers far more capability to lift a far broader range of vehicles than the HF model. So, that's a far better level of performance, because it is more useful.

And yes, my opinion is the vast majority of BMW owners (leasers) have the brand because of the perceived prestige of the Roundel on the hood. As basic transportation, BMWs are a complete waste of money following and considering your train of thought regarding the usefulness of floor jacks vs. brand-name.

Fair enough. People reading this forum (especially this thread) are really only concerned with lifting a BMW and for that purpose the HF offering is more than sufficient.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

This is a great jack https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...ACHyd1_pg4.htm

The actual weight off the jack is important because if you store the jack in a basement with steps or plan to transport the jack in a vehicle an all steel jack may be too heavy to maneuver.

As far as the jack rating, the biggest failure issue with jacks seems to be gradual leak down while under pressure, so a higher rating by weight jack is thought to be more resistant to hydraulic fluid blowing by the seal.

As far as reach and lowered cars, read the description for this jack- http://www.acjacks.com/acjacks_003.htm

I was kind of being sarcastic about the weight thing, I was hoping people got that...

The DK13HLQ jack on Pelican's site is fricking awesome. $550, but well worth the money IMO.

Again, I built an entire building and installed a commercial-grade 2-post lift just to lift and work on cars, so buying a few hundreds of dollars for a floor jack and stands is completely rational to me.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by sspade

Fair enough. People reading this forum (especially this thread) are really only concerned with lifting a BMW and for that purpose the HF offering is more than sufficient.

Listen, I'm not trying to argue with you about it. I looked the HF jack on line, regardless of the price vs. build quality, I don't think the OP would be happy with it. I don't think it will fit under the front of the E9X to reach the center jack point.

[Never_Enough]

If I can lift my big ass Hellcat w/the HF jack, it's fine for an E90

[overcoil]

chk these out http://www.jackpointjackstands.com

[stevenc]

Everyone is way over thinking this issue.

1) Jack should be a 3 ton jack to be safe and usuable on other vehicles
2) The 1.5 ton $60 HF jack is too small. I have it and it really is only good as a backup jack.
3) jack should be low profile to it can be used without first driving on the blocks.
4) Really no need to spend much more than $100-150 as there are plenty of good jacks that fit this profile.
5) All jack stands are basically the same. Just comes down to size, lifting capacity and the shape of the top. Probably spend $30 on a pair of jack stands.

3 ton Steel Husky floor jack $108
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-...FcHdwAodtM4Iog

3 ton JEGS aluminum Floor Jack $199
https://www.amazon.com/Low-Profile-A...car+jack&psc=1


3 Ton Liftmaster Aluminum Floor Jack $169
https://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-Al...3+ton+car+jack




Amazon Basic Jack Stands $30
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...car+jack&psc=1

[Wolf 335]

I'll just say it again, save yourself the trouble and get a long base low profile jack so you can reach the center jacking point without having to drive up on any ramp.

[icegrill]

I’m curious as to jack stand “safety” placement to bleed 1 brake at a time?

[overcoil]

Originally Posted by icegrill

I’m curious as to jack stand “safety” placement to bleed 1 brake at a time?

I just use my 3.5 ton rated floor jack at the BMW jack pad point and carefully place the wheel/tire under the sill as a safety measure.
Since I’m not getting under the car I don’t use a jack stand as suppprt just something under the control arm or sill in case.

I go to one wheel at a time.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by icegrill

I’m curious as to jack stand “safety” placement to bleed 1 brake at a time?

Until you accidentally get air in the lines and have to start over...