[RickFLM4]

Originally Posted by M_Six

One thing that can make life difficult is the 2.4GHz/5GHz thing. Tons of "smart" devices use 2.4GHz only whereas most new wifi routers work on the 5GHz range or are dual band. I have both 2.4GHz and 5GHz channels running, but if I try to use some smart devices through my iPhone when it's connected to the 5GHz network, it fails. I have to switch my phone to use the 2.4GHz network. My wifi routers (Apple AirPorts) were set to work on both bands, but each individual device would choose which band to use. My Apple TV 4k boxes kept defaulting to the 2.4GHz band even though they can use both. I'd be watching TV and Wifey would fire up the microwave and my TV would freeze because of the 2.4GHz interference from the microwave. So I had to create a 5GHz only network and force the Apple TV boxers to use that band only.

I have different names for the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands and put my phone and then my iPad on the 2.4 to try to set I up the lock. Neither could get the lock connected and I was sure I was on the 2.4. Couldn’t figure it out even when researching (and if you Google it, quite a few people have a problem connecting to WiFi with that lock). Oh well, trying again with something else in 2022.

[omasou]

Originally Posted by M_Six

I have the 2.4GHz band labelled with the SSID name and the 5GHz band labelled with the same SSID + 5GHz (So SSID-5GHz). That way I can force my Apple TV boxes to use the 5GHz band. Those are the only devices I need to force into 5GHz. The rest can use whichever band they want.

Not sure if this will work for you?

I cut the cord and all of my TV content comes via apps, e.g. no Verizon or Comcast.

My house is prewired for cable and home run to the basement near the electrical panel. The Verizon FiOS ONT cable out is connected to a distribution block. I connected a Motorola MOCA Adapter (via Cat 5e) to the distribution block and my router (via ethernet).

This allows my to use the existing home run Cat 5e and another Motorola MOCA Adapter to expose an Ethernet port without adding more cable. I use this solution to hardwire my TV or in your case the Apple TV.

If you have an existing "cable" modem it should have a MOCA adapter built-in.

Not sure if the MOCA can carry cable and ethernet?

[M_Six]

Originally Posted by omasou

Not sure if this will work for you?

I cut the cord and all of my TV content comes via apps, e.g. no Verizon or Comcast.

My house is prewired for cable and home run to the basement near the electrical panel. The Verizon FiOS ONT cable out is connected to a distribution block. I connected a Motorola MOCA Adapter (via Cat 5e) to the distribution block and my router (via ethernet).

This allows my to use the existing home run Cat 5e and another Motorola MOCA Adapter to expose an Ethernet port without adding more cable. I use this solution to hardwire my TV or in your case the Apple TV.

If you have an existing "cable" modem it should have a MOCA adapter built-in.

Not sure if the MOCA can carry cable and ethernet?

I'd love to use something like that. Unfortunately, this house has the funkiest wiring you ever saw. There are 6 coax outlets for TVs in this house, but each one is a direct and separate line to the outside. So yes, I have 6 coax cables sticking out of the side of my house. There is no "coax network" in place. I suppose I could mount some sort of junction box on the side of my house and try to tie all the coax cables into some sort of network, but that's a lot of work to solve a problem that can otherwise be solved by just using the 5GHz band.

[TiMSport]

Originally Posted by M_Six

I'd love to use something like that. Unfortunately, this house has the funkiest wiring you ever saw. There are 6 coax outlets for TVs in this house, but each one is a direct and separate line to the outside. So yes, I have 6 coax cables sticking out of the side of my house. There is no "coax network" in place. I suppose I could mount some sort of junction box on the side of my house and try to tie all the coax cables into some sort of network, but that's a lot of work to solve a problem that can otherwise be solved by just using the 5GHz band.

I think that's more common that you might think. Also, having a hardwired connection in many ways is going to always be better than a WiFi connection. No issues of thick walls and/or multiple stories interfering with the signal, etc.

[omasou]

Originally Posted by M_Six

I'd love to use something like that. Unfortunately, this house has the funkiest wiring you ever saw. There are 6 coax outlets for TVs in this house, but each one is a direct and separate line to the outside. So yes, I have 6 coax cables sticking out of the side of my house. There is no "coax network" in place. I suppose I could mount some sort of junction box on the side of my house and try to tie all the coax cables into some sort of network, but that's a lot of work to solve a problem that can otherwise be solved by just using the 5GHz band.

It sounds like your distribution block is on the outside of the house instead of inside.

I agree, it is simpler to just use 5GHz and I was doing that until recently when my son put on a blu-ray and I was like, WTF, why is the 1080p picture scaling to 4K look soooo much better than my 4K streams. As TiMSport mentioned moving the TV to Ethernet is faster and removed that high bandwidth traffic off the WiFI. Same reasoning for hardwiring his PS4.

Just my 2 cents.

[M_Six]

Originally Posted by omasou

It sounds like your distribution block is on the outside of the house instead of inside.

This is what I'm sayin'. There is no distribution box. Just 6 coax cables hanging out of the house wall. When they originally had several of the coax cables carrying cable TV, they had a nightmare mess of splitters and coiled coax loops to hook up the coax cables they wanted to carry the signal. Add to that the added hassle that this house was originally built as a duplex and so had two electrical, water, gas, and cable hookups, and you can imagine the fun I've had reverting everything to one system for each utility. The 6 coax cables aren't even all that close to each other. There are 3 from the upstairs and 3 from the downstairs and the 2 bunches are a foot or two apart, so I can't even use a single junction box if I were to go that route.

[ryan stewart]

I really like my Nest deadbolt (which is the Yale one, so if you wanted to do smartthings/homekit you could go their way).


Positives:
I really like the physical deadbolt design, it has a taper to it so if you didnt close the door all the way and there isnt another latch in place it will still lock as long as its SLIGHTLY off. If ends up kind of acting like a soft close. Much better than my previous models straight deadbolt that would just give up immediately.
Notifications work well. If a code is used on it then it will announce WHO unlocked the door, etc. It will announce locked.
Quiet mode: you can JUST disable the keypad using a long press of a button from the inside or the app. Good for when you want to limit who can get in.
No key at all, no worrying about picking, bumping or whatever. It has terminals for a 9v if you let the battery die.
I can easily LOCK it using routines, voice, etc. Assistants wont let you unlock it though for safety reasons. I wish there was an override because it would be handy and the only way someone could do it from outside is if they mimicked my voice well enough and my windows were already open.

Cons:
Really just the nest connect. I had a hell of a time keeping the lock connected over a couple of different mesh systems, Nest never really figured it out. I figured out it doesnt work well with two nodes in the house. Once I disabled 2.4 on the furthest node and only left one node with 2.4 active its been rock solid since. My guess is it gets confused which one to connect to and just gives up but doesnt TELL you, the light still shows green.

Id think if you were using the zwave/zigbee version this thing would be damned near bulletproof. Being said once I figured out its issue with mesh 2.4 its been great since. Im thinking about one for the back door too as my neighbor often lets my dog out for me and I no longer know where any physical keys are.

[jsf721]

Not so much related to locks but Wi-Fi. My ring smart lighting bridge would not connect to my Wi-Fi 5G network. I set up a 2.4 as a guest network and it worked fine. So far those are the only issues I’ve ever had.

I’m using the Google Wi-Fi router (mesh) and have 5 extenders to cover a 3400 sq/ft 2 floors w/basement. Needed the extra extenders to reach outdoor wireless camera.

I’ve been considering adding the Wi-Fi locks and upgrading routers but I’ve gone into analysis overload. Keep finding every system has too many issues and I’ve stayed put.

[RickFLM4]

Originally Posted by jsf721

Not so much related to locks but Wi-Fi. My ring smart lighting bridge would not connect to my Wi-Fi 5G network. I set up a 2.4 as a guest network and it worked fine. So far those are the only issues I’ve ever had.

I’m using the Google Wi-Fi router (mesh) and have 5 extenders to cover a 3400 sq/ft 2 floors w/basement. Needed the extra extenders to reach outdoor wireless camera.

I’ve been considering adding the Wi-Fi locks and upgrading routers but I’ve gone into analysis overload. Keep finding every system has too many issues and I’ve stayed put.

It’s crazy how virtually all Wi-Fi locks have many bad reviews on Amazon and elsewhere. I’m sure some are due to user errors, but I’ve read reviews of a bunch or products with complaints about Wi-Fi connectivity, hardware quality, battery life, app functionality and more.

I ordered a Schlage BE479 and will try to get it going with either HomeKit or their WiFi adapter (which I have been trying to avoid). If I can’t get the remote connection going at least I’ll solve the primary problem of letting the cleaning people open the door without a key.

[ryan stewart]

It sounds like it the same issue with mine, it wasnt the lock but the wifi bridge. I had to put mine on 2.4 and then disable the second 2.4 node to make it reliable, I would be one of those negative reviews and a return had I not figured it out. I was about to drop to the z wave model (not as easy to manage) because of it. Honestly if someone returned it from that I wouldnt call it user error, nest support couldnt even figure it out and just kept sending me replacement nest connects.

The lock itself is stellar, its the stupid little plug in device to convert whatever its signal is to wifi that is crap (but Im guessing necessary since the lock is on battery)

[M_Six]

I'd like a smart lock just for the ability to know if the door is locked or not. I have a bad habit of occasionally forgetting to lock doors and we've had pet sitters forget to lock doors when we were traveling. Just to be able to check that all doors are locked and/or lock them remotely would be cool. I don't really care about the locking/unlocking on a daily basis. I'm ok using a key as it seems most other methods are no faster or easier.

I've been thinking about trying a Level Bolt lock as they supposedly work with the existing dead bolt in your door. But lots of reviews squawk about the fit in the existing setup.

[paquet]

Originally Posted by RickFLM4

It’s crazy how virtually all Wi-Fi locks have many bad reviews on Amazon and elsewhere. I’m sure some are due to user errors, but I’ve read reviews of a bunch or products with complaints about Wi-Fi connectivity, hardware quality, battery life, app functionality and more.

I ordered a Schlage BE479 and will try to get it going with either HomeKit or their WiFi adapter (which I have been trying to avoid). If I can’t get the remote connection going at least I’ll solve the primary problem of letting the cleaning people open the door without a key.

Agree 100% - most of the bad reviews are, in my view, people not knowing how to set them up due to legacy issues (poor wifi coverage to begin with, etc)

I have the BE479 with the adapter - it works perfectly. Pondering getting another door lock since the adapter can handle multiple locks

[Patrick303]

Originally Posted by M_Six

I'd like a smart lock just for the ability to know if the door is locked or not. I have a bad habit of occasionally forgetting to lock doors and we've had pet sitters forget to lock doors when we were traveling. Just to be able to check that all doors are locked and/or lock them remotely would be cool. I don't really care about the locking/unlocking on a daily basis. I'm ok using a key as it seems most other methods are no faster or easier.

I've been thinking about trying a Level Bolt lock as they supposedly work with the existing dead bolt in your door. But lots of reviews squawk about the fit in the existing setup.

This is really where smart locks shine. You can program them to auto-lock after a period of time, check their status and lock remotely, program them to lock/unlock when other events trigger them, and/or schedule them to lock/unlock at certain times so you never forget.

I do a combination of these. I have Yale keypad locks on my front door and the door going from the garage to back yard. Those are programmed to re-lock automatically after 5 minutes. The door from the house to garage has a Level Lock because I wanted a clean install without a keypad. It's programmed to automatically unlock every morning and lock every evening to ensure the house is secure at night, but not forcing me to manually unlock to go in/out of the garage during the day. I also use the garage doors opening as a trigger, with geofencing to ensure it's one of us arriving home, to auto-unlock the Level Lock at night if we arrive home late.

Fitment on the Level Lock can be an issue. I originally had a Kwikset deadbolt on that door and the Level Lock didn't fit inside correctly, so I had to swap it out for a Baldwin that had a similar look.

[ryan stewart]

Interesting idea but do they make a non deadbolt option? Id do the same in my garage but I just have the single lock/handle option. Right now I have a keypad lock so I dont have to mess with a key but something like that would work just as well for me.

[paquet]

I would love to see smart locks for patio / sliding doors

[M_Six]

Originally Posted by Patrick303

This is really where smart locks shine. You can program them to auto-lock after a period of time, check their status and lock remotely, program them to lock/unlock when other events trigger them, and/or schedule them to lock/unlock at certain times so you never forget.

I do a combination of these. I have Yale keypad locks on my front door and the door going from the garage to back yard. Those are programmed to re-lock automatically after 5 minutes. The door from the house to garage has a Level Lock because I wanted a clean install without a keypad. It's programmed to automatically unlock every morning and lock every evening to ensure the house is secure at night, but not forcing me to manually unlock to go in/out of the garage during the day. I also use the garage doors opening as a trigger, with geofencing to ensure it's one of us arriving home, to auto-unlock the Level Lock at night if we arrive home late.

Fitment on the Level Lock can be an issue. I originally had a Kwikset deadbolt on that door and the Level Lock didn't fit inside correctly, so I had to swap it out for a Baldwin that had a similar look.

One of our current deadbolts is a mess anyway, so I'd be ok with buying new deadbolts to fit a Level Lock if need be.

[vreihen16]

Originally Posted by RickFLM4

I ordered a Schlage BE479 and will try to get it going with either HomeKit or their WiFi adapter (which I have been trying to avoid).

Although I call it one of my early HA mistakes, I am 100% satisfied with our Schlage BE479 HomeKit deadbolt! I do not know how it physically connects to HomeKit, but suspect that it is using Bluetooth to our Apple TV. The Apple TV is located about 8' away from the front door, well within Bluetooth's radio range. If yours is located further away, it might be an issue getting a solid connection.

My only gripe about the BE479 is having to use HomeKit automation kludges to control it from non-HomeKit automation platforms. Given the number of online complaints from users of Z-Wave, Zigbee, and wifi locks, I can live with the kludges knowing that the lock's connection always works.

Originally Posted by M_Six

I'd like a smart lock just for the ability to know if the door is locked or not. I have a bad habit of occasionally forgetting to lock doors and we've had pet sitters forget to lock doors when we were traveling. Just to be able to check that all doors are locked and/or lock them remotely would be cool.

The Schlage lock has an automatic locking timer option. I have ours set for 4 minutes, which is the maximum time length the option supports. (I *really* wish that it could do 5-6 minutes.) It is darn near impossible to forget to lock the door!

The lock does have a method to bypass the timer by manually punching the code into the keypad and then locking/unlocking the deadbolt from inside within 5 seconds. The only time that we ever use that is the rare times when we have company coming in/out frequently, or are working outside in the yard or driveway. Between auto-lock and the arrive home automation unlocking the door, enabling an occasional timer bypass is the only use that the lock's keypad ever sees.....

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by packet

I would love to see smart locks for patio / sliding doors

All Ive seen are surface mount ones which are ugly as sin. You basically mount a surface mount deadbolt lock that looks like a normal door one and then a receiver thing on the wall, etc.

The only other way Id think you could it would be some sort of lever that lowered/raised one of those security bar/bumpers like the old school stopper/limiter:
https://www.amazon.com/Sliding-Glass.../dp/B014U2I3AW

[paquet]

Thank you - that surface mount could work (I'm thinking of those lock covers that convert a regular lock into a smart lock)

But yeah, a proper sliding door mechanism with some smartness would be ideal.

[RickFLM4]

Originally Posted by packet

Agree 100% - most of the bad reviews are, in my view, people not knowing how to set them up due to legacy issues (poor wifi coverage to begin with, etc)

I have the BE479 with the adapter - it works perfectly. Pondering getting another door lock since the adapter can handle multiple locks

Originally Posted by vreihen16

Although I call it one of my early HA mistakes, I am 100% satisfied with our Schlage BE479 HomeKit deadbolt! I do not know how it physically connects to HomeKit, but suspect that it is using Bluetooth to our Apple TV. The Apple TV is located about 8' away from the front door, well within Bluetooth's radio range. If yours is located further away, it might be an issue getting a solid connection.

My only gripe about the BE479 is having to use HomeKit automation kludges to control it from non-HomeKit automation platforms. Given the number of online complaints from users of Z-Wave, Zigbee, and wifi locks, I can live with the kludges knowing that the lock's connection always works.

Thanks. I went ahead and got the WiFi adapter that pairs with the BE479. I didn't really want to do that, but I have it in case I can't get the HomeKit to work. (Apple TV more like 25 - 30 feet away so not sure if that will work.) If I don't need the WiFi adapter or need it but can't get it to work, I'll return it and live with no WiFi. I'll still be better off than I am with a key-only lock right now and it should solve my immediate problem.

[RickFLM4]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

It sounds like it the same issue with mine, it wasnt the lock but the wifi bridge. I had to put mine on 2.4 and then disable the second 2.4 node to make it reliable, I would be one of those negative reviews and a return had I not figured it out. I was about to drop to the z wave model (not as easy to manage) because of it. Honestly if someone returned it from that I wouldnt call it user error, nest support couldnt even figure it out and just kept sending me replacement nest connects.

The lock itself is stellar, its the stupid little plug in device to convert whatever its signal is to wifi that is crap (but Im guessing necessary since the lock is on battery)

I agree on the user error part. I returned two versions of the same lock because I couldn't get them to work and there are a lot of complaints about WiFi connections for it. Gets kinda murky where user error and design / support demerits intersect.

[M_Six]

Trying one of these out today. Fingers crossed.