[dcstep]

Originally Posted by joonsup

for the op and Trijicon, what camera body are you using? I'm still new to photography and i've recently been using the 17-55 IS 2.8 lense that i picked up this past summer on my Canon T1i and I don't think I am able to get quality shots like the ones posted. Or maybe I need to get out of the aperture priority mode. i dunno

I'm using the 5D MkII, but you should be able to get really close with you T1i so long as you keep the ISO low and use a really good lens.

I shoot almost everything in Aperture Priority. I DO pay attention to the shutter speed. In the case of the mountain goat I was up over 1/1000 second because it was very windy on top of that mountain. Just because I used Aperture Priority I didn't ignore the shutter speed. I chose my DOF and then adjusted the ISO up to get a shutter speed that wouldn't be blurred by the strong wind. As you see, the light was very good.

The 5D2 has exceptionally good IQ, but you could have gotten very close, particularly at these "internet sizes" with your Rebel.

[Joonsup]

Originally Posted by bosstones

Truer words were never spoken. Geez....while I have been heavily resisting the urge to add telephoto zoom to my len arsenal....you go and buy this! I think you secretly hate me. lol

Joonsup, there is a price to be paid for higher quality optics. That doesn't mean you can't take some good shots w/o them, though. Here's a pic I took using a 18-55mm IS kit lens on my XTi. It's still one of my favorite pix (sorry if this is a threadjack).

is there any photoshop done to this picture? looks awesome.

Originally Posted by dcstep

I'm using the 5D MkII, but you should be able to get really close with you T1i so long as you keep the ISO low and use a really good lens.

I shoot almost everything in Aperture Priority. I DO pay attention to the shutter speed. In the case of the mountain goat I was up over 1/1000 second because it was very windy on top of that mountain. Just because I used Aperture Priority I didn't ignore the shutter speed. I chose my DOF and then adjusted the ISO up to get a shutter speed that wouldn't be blurred by the strong wind. As you see, the light was very good.

The 5D2 has exceptionally good IQ, but you could have gotten very close, particularly at these "internet sizes" with your Rebel.

great. thanks for the information. I've messed with the DOF but still learning the proper use of the ISO depending on the light, etc..

[bosstones]

Originally Posted by joonsup

is there any photoshop done to this picture? looks awesome.

Thanks. Yes, it was tweaked a little. Here's what I did:

1. slight curve correction.
2. masked the lenses and ///M badge so I could leave them colored while everything else was B&W.
3. clone stamped to get rid off all the moths that had landed on my rear windshield.
4. resized image.
5. unsharp mask to get back some sharpness after resizing.

I typically do a little color correction using curves even with my L-series lens. I do find that not as much is needed w/ the L lens, though. I would also do steps 4 & 5 regardless of the lens I used. Step 3 is done as needed. Step 2 was just an artistic thing. I guess I'm basically saying that I didn't do those things, which wasn't much work, specifically because I had used the kit lens.

[immiketoo]

Bosstones, how do you do the mask? I'm still trying to figure that out.

[Trijicon]

Originally Posted by joonsup

for the op and Trijicon, what camera body are you using? I'm still new to photography and i've recently been using the 17-55 IS 2.8 lense that i picked up this past summer on my Canon T1i and I don't think I am able to get quality shots like the ones posted. Or maybe I need to get out of the aperture priority mode. i dunno

I have three bodies I shoot from. 1Dmk3, 5Dmk2, and T2i. So I'm shooting from all the cropped sensor Canon offers. The lenses I use is the 16-35L, 24-105L, 70-200L is, and 85L, and 50 1.8.

I'm in Aperture Priority 80% of the time so I'd stick with that.



What do you mean by quality?

If its color rendition, pro lenses help but a lot can be reproduced in photoshop. However, I prefer to get the best color initially but leaving the shutter open longer and using a lower ISO.

If its sharpness, remember most lenses are sharpest atleast 2 stops down from wide open, so with the 17-55 I'd be in f5.6.

If its DOF, get some primes. The 50 f1.8 is the best bang for your buck in DOF and quality. Your in-door portraits will look great at f2.0. The lense is only $100, GET IT!!

If its composition, pick up a photography composition book at Borders. Start learning tips for different scenarios (landscape, documentary, journalistic, sports, portraits, events, etcs). Then its practice practice practice.

[Trijicon]

Originally Posted by joonsup

great. thanks for the information. I've messed with the DOF but still learning the proper use of the ISO depending on the light, etc..

Joonsup is correct.

I'd use ISO 400 as your default, if your shutter speed sinks slower than 1/50 indoor (the shake in hand usually has no affect 1/50 or faster), then start increasing ISO until the shutter is faster than 1/50.

[Trijicon]

This was a pic from Yosemite. I stitched 8 images from the 1st gen 70-200 ISL. ISO 100 @ f16

[Joonsup]

Originally Posted by Trijicon

I have three bodies I shoot from. 1Dmk3, 5Dmk2, and T2i. So I'm shooting from all the cropped sensor Canon offers. The lenses I use is the 16-35L, 24-105L, 70-200L is, and 85L, and 50 1.8.

I'm in Aperture Priority 80% of the time so I'd stick with that.



What do you mean by quality?

If its color rendition, pro lenses help but a lot can be reproduced in photoshop. However, I prefer to get the best color initially but leaving the shutter open longer and using a lower ISO.

If its sharpness, remember most lenses are sharpest atleast 2 stops down from wide open, so with the 17-55 I'd be in f5.6.

If its DOF, get some primes. The 50 f1.8 is the best bang for your buck in DOF and quality. Your in-door portraits will look great at f2.0. The lense is only $100, GET IT!!

If its composition, pick up a photography composition book at Borders. Start learning tips for different scenarios (landscape, documentary, journalistic, sports, portraits, events, etcs). Then its practice practice practice.

Great information. I do have the 1.8 50mm lense but I haven't been using it enough since the 17-55 lense was more practical when taking my camera on trips. I plan on investing in a decent camera bag where I can carry both lenses with me wherever I go.

I guess what I meant by quality was how sharp the picture was and how "vibrant" the colors were, etc.. I'm sure with the help of photoshop I could tweak the pictures I take to make them look better, but I do understand that I can't expect the same quality pictures from a $2000 setup compared to a $5000+ setup. I'll just practice with what I have and in the future if I stick with this hobby I'll decide whether to invest in some "above amateur level" gear.

Originally Posted by Trijicon

Joonsup is correct.

I'd use ISO 400 as your default, if your shutter speed sinks slower than 1/50 indoor (the shake in hand usually has no affect 1/50 or faster), then start increasing ISO until the shutter is faster than 1/50.

I'm going to write this one down and tape it onto my camera or something lol. Thanks for the tip.

[Trijicon]

Originally Posted by joonsup

I'm going to write this one down and tape it onto my camera or something lol. Thanks for the tip.

Another way to think about it is. Make sure your shutter speed is faster than the max zoom your lense is capable of.

So for your 17-55mm make sure your shutter speed is faster the than 55 (or 1/55).

For your 50mm maks sure your shutter speed is faster than 50 (or 1/50)

If you get the 70-200L make sure your shutter speed is faster than 200 (or 1/200). Remember, longer focal lengths magnify the hand shake, so 1/200 minimum is needed.

[OC Guy]

Assuming you are shooting cars:
http://www.carphototutorials.com/

[Joonsup]

Originally Posted by Trijicon

Another way to think about it is. Make sure your shutter speed is faster than the max zoom your lense is capable of.

So for your 17-55mm make sure your shutter speed is faster the than 55 (or 1/55).

For your 50mm maks sure your shutter speed is faster than 50 (or 1/50)

If you get the 70-200L make sure your shutter speed is faster than 200 (or 1/200). Remember, longer focal lengths magnify the hand shake, so 1/200 minimum is needed.

That's an easy way to think of it. I will have to mess with that this weekend. Thanks!

[Joonsup]

Originally Posted by OC 335i

Assuming you are shooting cars:
http://www.carphototutorials.com/

Thanks for the link I"ll check it out during my lunch. Not just cars but anything in general...cars, people, landscape.

[immiketoo]

Originally Posted by joonsup

Thanks for the link I"ll check it out during my lunch. Not just cars but anything in general...cars, people, landscape.

An all rounder like me! Primes are cool, and I am considering those as well. As far as color is concerned, understanding light is your best weapon before post processing. The more/better the light, the more accurate representation of color you will get. Spend some time learning about light, understand how different temperatures of light affect your pics and practice. Example: How beautiful do senic places look at dawn or sunset vs high noon. The main difference is the color of the light and of course the angle, which is more dramatic at the extremes.

I have a great book on light. I'll post the title when I get home.

[Joonsup]

awesome thanks!

[immiketoo]

OK, here it is. Stoppee's Guide to Photography and Light. Good read.

[bosstones]

Hey, Mike, any chance you can take a couple of quick low light/night shots with the new lens? Hand held would be fine since I seem to have an abhorrence towards using/carrying my tripod.

Canon's 85mm prime is a pretty nice one and won't break the bank, too, BTW.

[immiketoo]

sure. you want night or evening? Give me an idea of the subject matter you envision and I'll see what I can do.

[bosstones]

Originally Posted by immiketoo

sure. you want night or evening? Give me an idea of the subject matter you envision and I'll see what I can do.

Whichever is most convenient. I tend to not use my tripod when I go out for pix. Night works if you can swing it. Otherwise evening is okay. As for subject matter, cars will work as well as any sort of building/structure. Thanks!

[immiketoo]

No problem. I have noticed I can get a very steady hold at 1/40 and 1/50 with the IS on mode 1. I'll try to get out tonight and shoot some shots.

[OC Guy]

85mm is very sharp. Here's the non-L:




Here's the MkI version of the 70-200mm

Probably too shallow DOF:




All these were taken with my 40D before I got the 5D Mk II.

[vivekk]

Originally Posted by bosstones

..Canon's 85mm prime is a pretty nice one and won't break the bank, too, BTW.

Couldn't agree with you more.

Here are a few shots, all taken hand-held (no tripod) under mostly low lighting conditions, using the Canon 85mm f/1.8 prime lens on my 5d Mark II using Av mode:










Viv

[immiketoo]

Bosstones, here are some essentially dark, high ISO shots from my driveway. All hand held and shutter speeds between 1/15 and 1/20.