[chef423]

I just replaced both of the SMC modules (both were corroded and giving error codes) and coded them in with PROTOOL but the lights still wont turn left or right...

I notice when I start the car the lights do move up, adjusting up a bit.

I re-coded both the left and right to see if that would fix the issue but no luck.

Any ideas?

Thank you,
Chef

[ptpending]

do you remember that they are turning only when light switch is in auto mode ?

[sergiyny]

as far as i know they only turn right...

[chef423]

Originally Posted by ptpending

do you remember that they are turning only when light switch is in auto mode ?

I dont remember (not sure what you are asking)

I could have sworn before when they were working they moved both directions when I turned the wheel left or right, respectively. I do keep my lights in Auto Mode, yes.

[DenverSteve]

Originally Posted by sergiyny

as far as i know they only turn right...

That would be totally incorrect. Left and right.

Originally Posted by chef423

I dont remember (not sure what you are asking)I could have sworn before when they were working they moved both directions when I turned the wheel left or right, respectively. I do keep my lights in Auto Mode, yes.

...

You would be correct.

[chef423]

No codes and new parts. Still have no idea why they are not turning....OR how to troubleshoot.

Help.

[LOW4LYF]

They turn right only if the vehicle is not moving. If you driving they turn left and right of course.

[chef423]

I wish they turned, at all!

[chef423]

No one?

[DenverSteve]

Originally Posted by chef423

No codes and new parts. Still have no idea why they are not turning....OR how to troubleshoot....Help.

Too many possibilities: incompatible parts, bad ground, blown fuse, too much corrosion, you f(#$ed something up.....??

Solution - take it to your dealer if they work on older 3-series cars (some don't) or your independent. It probably could have been fixed by now.

The #1 rule that works "for me" is - don't try to be a German-car mechanic if you're not a German-car mechanic. There are too many interconnected electronic items on newer cars.

#2 is - Don't buy an older German car without setting aside $1,000-$2,000 a year for professional maintenance. Not total - per year. You will eventually need it.

[chef423]

Originally Posted by DenverSteve

Too many possibilities: incompatible parts, bad ground, blown fuse, too much corrosion, you f(#$ed something up.....??

Solution - take it to your dealer if they work on older 3-series cars (some don't) or your independent. It probably could have been fixed by now.

The #1 rule that works "for me" is - don't try to be a German-car mechanic if you're not a German-car mechanic. There are too many interconnected electronic items on newer cars.

#2 is - Don't buy an older German car without setting aside $1,000-$2,000 a year for professional maintenance. Not total - per year. You will eventually need it.

Bought the car and have updated about 8k worth of parts. So im all in. I bought this car for that reason. And I am German, but i dont need that title to be able to work on this car.

Looking for additional input from EXP wrenchers.

[DenverSteve]

Originally Posted by chef423

Bought the car and have updated about 8k worth of parts. So im all in. I bought this car for that reason. And I am German, but i dont need that title to be able to work on this car.

Looking for additional input from EXP wrenchers.

Yeah. As you've already figured out - being German hasn't helped yet.

[rcracin]

Try reading through this:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1117724

[chef423]

Originally Posted by DenverSteve

Yeah. As you've already figured out - being German hasn't helped yet.

Neither has these forums, ironically. And I would never pass my car to a 'mechanic', that's insanity. I do ALL my own work, no matter the difficulty level. Funny how refreshing the Transmission is easier than figuring out why my lights wont move.

[rcracin]

This forum doesn’t owe you anything. Your attitude definitely doesn’t help. Good luck

[1and1]

Chef,
Is this correct-
-You replaced the smc modules
-You coded with protools
-You then had no codes, but no l/r movement
-You then recoded with protools with no change to the symptoms

Presuming still no codes

OK then, what else have you tried? Verified mechanical function is correct? Checked the coding with anything else but pt? Located a donor set of lights to test with, to really verify yours aren't borked? Verified wiring is all good?

I'm guessing you've actually done all those things already, cause I'm sure a hotshot wrench like yourself isn't asking to be spoonfed. Yes, that was meant to sound bitchy.

Hey, I don't know what the heck is up with your lights, and I do my own wrenching too. But if my headlights were doing the same thing I'd be a lot more active to get it fixed than pestering a forum two weeks later.

If you are leaning in on coding, why not alter the approach and look into what coding to review, and which tools are best to investigate with? You know, instead of asking what's wrong. I'm not a coding hotshot and have no idea where to look or suggestions to offer, but, again, if it were me that's probably what I'd be doing.

And I'm not kidding about a donor set of lights to test with, you'll know instantly which half is borked, hardware or software.