[GrussGott]

There. I've said it.

And the reason is simple:
Once a mitt/sponge is dirty it's never clean until it's completely washed out, and the minute it goes into the bucket now the bucket-water is dirty.

Much better for homes with water:
(1.) Spray your car down
(2.) Spray on shampoo with a hose foamer or a hand spray foamer like a Marolex
(3.) After a dwell, use 1 rag/sponge/mitt per panel working top down and then flip to a clean side until all sponge/mitt sides are used - then put in a dirty pile & grab a new clean one.

This way, no using the same dirty sponge/mitt/rag on more than 1 panel, and no contamination of wash water, not to mention WAY less hassle, water, & mess

And this method is easily adaptable anywhere, even without access to running water - like say if you live in an apartment or are on a road trip and just drove through bugs:

*> Spray down the car at a u-wash if you can (or use a battery power sprayer) or pre-spray with rinseless wash like Mckee's 37

*> Put 1/2 gallon of distilled water in a collapsible bucket with a cap of Mckee's RW and, say, 4 Rag Co Everest 550 MFs

*> Put some Mckees RW solution into the marolex if you haven't already

*> Spray down a panel with rinseless wash, and the next panel ahead to dwell; grab a MF/Mitt from the bucket & lightly wring out until just barely not dripping - never put a dirty rag/mitt back into the bucket! Once it comes out, it's out forever.

*> Use 1/4 of an MF or 1 side of a mitt per panel to wash lightly in one direction* like R to L & work top to bottom, buff dry with 1/4 dry MF until done.

*> Optionally use, say, TW's Flex Wax as a drying aid


*Why one direction?
Because if you do get scratches they'll only be in one direction so (a.) you can see how well you're doing the technique since you'll know they're yours, but (b.) one direction scratches are very easy to buff out, even by hand.

* Why work top to bottom?
Because the top is cleaner than the bottom so you minimize scratches - ideally do the top 3/4 with one MF and the bottom with a separate one and dump. Yeah, this requires / uses a lot of MFs, but the more clean MFs you use, the lower the probability of scratching.

[5pacey]

Awesome stuff Dude! Thx, I was actually looking for your recipe through the threads, so it very timely 👍

Let's make this stick.

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by 5pacey

Awesome stuff Dude! Thx, I was actually looking for your recipe through the threads, so it very timely ��

Let's make this stick.

For sure! One thing I'd add is a quick bit of history on the why:

* 10 years ago I had a full garage set up: polishers, buckets, foam cannons, power washers, 1 billion lumens, etc
* Moved to multi-city living in condos, no garage, so used a detailer
* After a few of "the best" just wasn't getting my money's worth so switched to the method above & discovered it's WAY easier and gets better results than pro detailers for much less time and WAY less money

The next thing I'd add is the evolutions:

(1.) Optimum no rinse -> Mckee's 37
Works better, smells better

(2.) Sponges -> MFs -> great MFs like TRC's Everest -> Microfiber Madness's Incredipad (there's an XL version too)
The MM stuff for how I work is fantastic, but it's expensive, especially if you buy a bunch to stick with only one side per panel. Nevertheless, still WAY cheaper than using a detailer!

(3.) Wheelie Brushes -> Microfiber Madness' flat IncrediBrush
Yes it's spendy, but DAMN is this thing awesome: super durable, super comfy, super effective, super easy to get between wheel barrels & calipers and just built like brick shithouse. Having 2, one for each side, is an embarrassment of luxury. And clean up is easy: hose it down or wring it out as a final step and then pull off the cover and toss it in wash with your other dirty MF.

(4.) Lots of sealants, waxes, LSPs -> TW Flex Wax
It's just easy to apply, will easily last 3-6 weeks between washes, and if you do good prep for the basecoat and let that cure 24 hours, and then use it as a drying aid or topper it'll basically last forever. No need for spendy ceramic. And, let's say you're going on a date or wanna show off, but you just washed your car & did some flex wax a few days ago - then I'd use P & S Dream Maker; it'll only last a day or 3, but it's fun to use as an inbetween drying aid for real pop.

[GrussGott]

For those who care about wash mitts, about the best video on the subject I've seen ...

[GrussGott]

Adding more to this, for people who live in apartments and/or condos, but have street access, or if you want to sneak to a parking lot somewhere, or just looking for an easy way to use only de-ionized/distilled water (you can buy it in refillable 3 or 5 gallon jugs from Whole Foods for $0.49/gallon) ...

So the question becomes what if you want to spray off your car without a hose or you don't want / can't use a hose?

Or what if you want to use de-ionized water to avoid water spots but don't have a home de-ionizer and/or you want that on the road?

Well, if your application is mostly for the car, then there are pretty good battery-powered "power washers" ... Sun Jo makes them but I prefer Worx since they have a whole ego-system including a pretty cool portable car vacuum which uses the same batteries.

Worx has basically 2 models: the cheaper version that has the motor in the handle, and a more expensive version with a brushless portable motor that goes in the bucket. This guy review the expensive version here:

And the lower priced one is reviewed here:

My 2 cents is, you don't need (and shouldn't want!) more pressure than these portable units put out, and the portability gives you the option to bring this with you on road trips to wash off bugs, etc anywhere AND use distilled/de-ionized water to avoid water spots.

Basically fill up a 3 gallon whole foods water container with distilled water, or just use tap, and then spray off your car anywhere: hotel parking lots, walmart, side street, where ever. It's a great option to pair with rinseless wash as it gives you the option to power spray off your car first, and to do a pre-suds if you want.

Basically I use the process in the first posts above, but add this in to do a pre-rinse down to spray off bugs & dirt and since it's portable it's easy to bring with on road trips, skiing, etc.

[todd92]

Just go to the car wash. It's a car, not a priceless work of art.

[Melbourne_X5M]

Originally Posted by todd92

Just go to the car wash. It's a car, not a priceless work of art.

Troll

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by todd92

Just go to the car wash. It's a car, not a priceless work of art.

Neither is your mom Todd, but I still gently clean her first too sooo

[HuskerNSC]

[Roch M4]

I start first by pressure wash the car to remove any debris and the maximum of dirt in order to wash it after with a sponge and car shampoo. This way I avoid to have a dirty bucket and any debris that could scratch the paint. After 2 or 3 panels I clean the sponge just in case.

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by Roch M4

I start first by pressure wash the car to remove any debris and the maximum of dirt in order to wash it after with a sponge and car shampoo. This way I avoid to have a dirty bucket and any debris that could scratch the paint. After 2 or 3 panels I clean the sponge just in case.

That's a good method! This is where I think the key is the microfiber since it's kinda magic in its ability to suck dirt up into it, but then release it in solution.

Ultimately the contact wash *has* to abrate dirt & particles off the paint, i.e., the dirt has become bonded to the paint and now we're expecting the wash media to pull it off (whereas a clay bar / mitt can pull and/or shear it off when it's stuck deeply).

A lot of the reason this happens is due to heating & cooling cycles; i.e. the vehicle gets some dirt/dust/pollen/brake dust, etc on it, then the car (the sheet metal) heats up and expands creating micro-cracks in the clearcoat that the dirt falls into; then the car cools and contracts grabbing and trapping the dirt ... and it happens with ceramics & PPF too, but to a lesser degree.

Since I like to maintain my car myself, I don't need PPF or ceramic (and because I don't drive in places with tons of blowing sand / debris) it's a lot easier to buy some great microfiber and use the no-bucket method if I have the temp & drainage:

(1.) Power-spray down the car with de-ionized water
I buy it in bulk at the grocery store & use a Worx portable sprayer ~450PSI. I don't use even 3 gallons for a full rinse & wash.

(2.) Do a Mckee's 37 SiO2 Rinseless wash
That stuff is but it does have protection in it. I've bought a LOT of microfiber recently ... I'm trying all of The Rag Company's stuff (ultra wash mitts & pads, all of their Korean towels - I'm liking the FTW for rinseless! But the Pfuffle might be the best...), and Microfiber Madness's incredipads (I will say, MM's microfiber, whatever it is, definitely feels better, but TRC seems to favor the 70/30 and claims it's the best for paint). For buff drying, TRC's 12x12 gauntlets are killer.

(3.) Wheels & Tires
These are more of a challenge with no water, but otherwise I do them first with usually a rinse first, then P&S brake buster dwell & tire scrub + a boar's hair detail brush for the wheel faces & MM's flat incredibrush for the barrels, then a rinse, then a rinseless wash, then dressing.

[Rondi]

Originally Posted by GrussGott

That's a good method! This is where I think the key is the microfiber since it's kinda magic in its ability to suck dirt up into it, but then release it in solution.

…

(3.) Wheels & Tires
These are more of a challenge with no water, but otherwise I do them first with usually a rinse first, then P&S brake buster dwell & tire scrub + a boar's hair detail brush for the wheel faces & MM's flat incredibrush for the barrels, then a rinse, then a rinseless wash, then dressing.

Would you please expand a bit on wheels and tires? Wouldn’t it be easier with some pressure wash?

It is the toughest area for me to clean on my x6…

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by Rondi

Would you please expand a bit on wheels and tires? Wouldn’t it be easier with some pressure wash?

It is the toughest area for me to clean on my x6…

Sure ... I can try, though it's tricky and there are a lot of variables ... so if you tell me more about your situation I might have better thoughts, but generally:

First, by far the easiest way to maintain wheels/tires generally is to get them super clean in one super session with a pressure washer, drain, etc etc, and the coat the wheel face, barrels, calipers, (maybe something like gTechniq C5? Wheel Armor or I use TWFW, but Seal & Shine would probably be better) and dress the tire (I like CarPro Perl). That makes maintenance washes thereafter pretty easy and can usually be done more/less like a rinseless wash (if there's no pressure washer and/or drainage.) Until they get hammered and/or the coating start to fail in 6-12 months depending how abusive you are.

If you DO have routine access to a drain and money for a portable pressure washer (e.g., like a Worx Hydroshot) then you use that to spray them down first, then I'd do a RW spray down & dwell, rinse, then assess. If it's just light dust/dirt left then do a normal RW at that point. If not, I'd do a RW spray, and then agitate the wheel face with a boar's hair brush and then rinse. Did that work? If so, more of that.

If they're fairly slammed, though, then you'll have to use something like P&S Brake Buster. I'd spray that on, let dwell for about 5 min, then scrub the tire with a tire brush, then use a very soft bristled boar's hair detailing brush to agitate the wheel faces all over, then rinse off thoroughly, then do a normal RW.


If you have no access to drain and/or water then there are some options but they start getting tricky.

If you have a hydroshot, though, it's usually pretty easy to find a parking lot, pop the hatch, stick the hose in a 3 gallon Whole Foods water bottle full of de-i water, and then spray them down and continue as above.

Another thing that's really handy is a 2L or 3L Marolex pump sprayer. you can use it for RW solution, products, or just with De-i water to rinse off areas gently like door jambs.

[Rondi]

Originally Posted by GrussGott

Sure ... I can try, though it's tricky and there are a lot of variables ... so if you tell me more about your situation I might have better thoughts, but generally:

…

If you have a hydroshot, though, it's usually pretty easy to find a parking lot, pop the hatch, stick the hose in a 3 gallon Whole Foods water bottle full of de-i water, and then spray them down and continue as above.

Another thing that's really handy is a 2L or 3L Marolex pump sprayer. you can use it for RW solution, products, or just with De-i water to rinse off areas gently like door jambs.

Thanks, I appreciate it.
I believe I need to buy the hydroshot and a bendable brush to help clean my wheels efficiently.

I live in a house and have easy access to water/hose on my driveway to the right of the car there

[GrussGott]

Cross-linking in this post for those looking for road-trip wash ideas and/or just an easier way to get the same results as two-bucket with less hassle and expense:

For a roadtrip setup you can read my clickbaity thread but here's the summary of what you need:

(A.) A collapsible bucket or two or three
(B.) A Worx Hydroshot or similar (not the 725psi big boy! 450 psi is plenty, the smallest is most portable)
(C.) Mckee's N-914 Rinseless Wash (the plain version as you have a coating so topper needed)
(D.) Good 70/30 microfiber towels (e.g., TRC's Pfuffle, or Everest, Minx Royale, or Ultra mitts or pads)
(E.) Good 70/30 drying MFs, like TRC's Gauntlet
(F.) Good portable spray bottle (e.g., Kwazar 360, Marolex pump 1L, etc)

Optionally if you have room
(G.) A 3 gallon water bottle from whole foods, pre-filled with de-i'd water from there (usually ~ $0.49/gallon)
(H.) Citrol
(I.) Grit Guard for Collapsible bucket(s)
(J.) Bug sponge

After the day's drive, here's your process:

(1.) Pre-wash. Goal: remove as much dirt/debris as possible w/o water spots
If you don't have a hydroshot you can do this at a U-wash, but just buy the hydroshot. Screw a 2L bottle of de-i water + a few drops of mckee's onto the small version hydroshot, or stick the hose into a gallon bottle/bucket of the larger version (2 mckee's caps/gallon). Spray down the whole car really well, give it a little dwell time, like 3-5 min. This is important. If you have the time & water, spray it down again.

(2.) Contact Wash. Goal: Abrate off as much dirt as possible w/o micromarring
Technique is key and I'd recommend the Zone + Garry Dean methods.
Zones:
Zone 1 is your hood & roof; Zone 2 is the top half of your side panels; Zone 3 is the bottom half of your side panels; Zone 4 are your bumpers (if you're doing this all the time like me, then Zone 5 is your wheels).
Wash Method:
(2.1.) Fill a collapsible bucket with 1 gallon of de-i water + 2 caps of McKee's 914. Dip a spray bottle in there to fill up if you don't have one already.
(2.2.) Put 4-5 wash MF's into the bucket; once they come out they never go back in!
(2.3.) Take out an MF, wring out until just barely not dripping, fold into quarters, starting with zone one, counting the hood as 2 panels, use 1/4 MF / panel, wiping in a single direction aligned w/ wind flow (no swirls!). Buff dry with a quartered dry MF like the gauntlet.
(2.4.) Flip the MF and wash the next panel - use the spray bottle to ensure the panel is plenty wet w/ McKee's RW. Continue like this panel by panel, zone to zone until done. If a MF falls on the ground grab a new one, never put a used MF into the wash bucket.
(2.5) If needed do a bug scrub (see below)

(3.) Wash Your MFs! Goal: get ready for tomorrow!
Any left over clean MFs can be removed from the wash bucket simply wrung out. ONLY ONCE YOU'RE 100% DONE WASHING, put the grit guard into the wash bucket if you have one, then put your dirty MFs into the wash bucket (do used drying towels first, then washing towels) and squeeze them all out until clean. Dump the water and do a rinse cycle (again, drying towels first, then wash towels). Hang to dry.


BUG / TAR SCRUB
Keep some McKee's 37 Rinseless Wash in a spray bottle ready to go in your trunk. When you can, like stopping for gas or food, spot-spray on the McKee's and let it dwell for a few minutes. Take an MF, wet it down with RW, re-wet the spot, then gently wipe off the bugs. If you have a good coating this should get most bugs off by itself (if it doesn't then your coating's dirty or it sucks). If not, try the bug scrubber + McKee's.
For very stuck on bugs/tar you can spray on Citrol, let it dwell, then use a MF wet with McKee's to wipe off. You could also bust out the Hydroshot and give that a try first, before going to Citrol.

The whole process can take 20-30 min once you do it a few times.

--------------> Home / Garage Setup Experience <---------------
My 2 cents based on my experiences over the last 15 years of detailing my cars is:

(1.) Foam, Foam Cannons: Not Worth It.
Why?
Because foam in itself does nothing. It's fun! it looks cool! ... and maybe that's enough to do it ... but as for functional cleaning, no, it's not really doing anything more than water itself; i.e., a pre-contact-wash power spray down is just as good as a foam cannon. Thus money is WAY better allocated to microfibers, drying aides, & other tools ... unless you're simply looking for the fun - which it is! Thus a battery power-sprayer I've found to be plenty and, because it's so easy to use & always ready to go, I use it more. Businesses with customer probably need foam cannons to look cool, and companies/people who profit from selling that stuff love to sell it - and there's no doubt it's fun & cool - but, functionally, it's not doing much. It's kinda like protein powder for most people: emotionally it feels like it's doing something, but rationally it's not.

(2.) pH Neutral Soap: It Depends ...
Why?
If you're trying to "chemically" remove dirt & road film from your car before a contact wash via a dwell, pH neutral soap won't do a thing (more than plain old water) because ... it's pH neutral! Only acids & alkalines will dissolve stuff. Thus if that's the goal a power-spray is all that's needed (ideally with de-i water to avoid spots). What pH neutral soap *is* good for is lubricity during the contact wash. The real problem is, most people think foam=clean even with a weak soap like pH neutral - it doesn't!. pH neutral soap is especially shitty with road film - i.e., anytime your car is driven in the rain. pH neutral soap will NOT clean road film, it'll just smear it around when you do a contact wash, but you can't see it because it's invisible (but it compromises your wax/coating/sealant). You have to use a APC to get road film off, i.e., a solvent solution capable of removing it like Superior Road Warrior, Dark Fury (for the experienced only), or similar.

(3.) De-i Water: So Worth It!
Why?
To avoid spotting, which can be REALLY destructive, A home de-i pretty convenient ... though if you don't mind buying it by the reusuable bottle from the grocery store (or if you have water delivered) it can be easier to use a battery-powered power-sprayer. I find this method way wAY WAY easier ... and, TBH, I wash my car more because I don't have drag everything out. Though if you have a really nice wash-bay setup (wall/roof mounted de-i/compressor system & hose reel) then everything is always ready.

(4.) Ego 650 Blower: A Ridiculous Luxury!
Why?
If you don't routinely modified-rinseless-wash like I do, an Ego 650 Blower kicks ass. It's portable-ish and it'll remove 99% of the water in 2 min. Anytime I've done a driveway full spray down I always blow it off first, then use a Marolex to spray on rinseless wash; that way I've gotten all of the water out of the nooks & crannies, and any that drips out I'll get as I go by with the RW contact wash.

(5.) Good Microfiber: Your #1 Contact Wash Tool!
Why?
It's magic: its electrical charge is opposite of dirt, so a really good, soft (70/30), well-maintained (see below) microfiber will suck dirt up into it, thus not marring your paint, and then release it in water. So the key to avoiding micro-marring your paint is:
(a.) An excellent microfiber used as wash media
(b.) Lubricity! A good soap or rinseless wash (I prefer the latter)
(c.) Maintained MF
Never in hot water, only washed with MF detergent like Rags-to-riches, never washed or mixed with other fabrics, well-dried, never stored where it can get dusty, etc

Net-Net: Sure, some dirt can be sprayed off, but the bulk is probably coming off with not via soap, but via your wash media, i.e., microfiber. So the better the pile on your wash media (inside and outside!) the less chance of micro-marring.

[seoul]

GrussGott always love these posts of yours and study them closely. Very very helpful so thanks a bunch.

Now that I finally have my car I'm trying to figure out the best method for me. I like washing my car, but I'm not willing to spend more than an hour a week doing it. And I can do it at home but my driveway is on a huge slope so it's not conducive to washing cars. I have a u-wash kind of place nearby so I plan to use that.

Here's what I'm thinking. Any thoughts/suggestions?

Supplies
- 2 buckets (1 car, 1 wheels)
- Rag Co. Cyclone Mitts x 8
- MF towels for drying (Rag Co. 365?)
- McKee's 37 wash
- Turtle Wax Flex Wax
- Schaeffer's Citrol
- P&S Brake Duster
- Invisible Glass
- Chemical Guys Tire Kicker (?)

Process
1. Rinse wheels
2. Clean wheels (P&S Brake Buster)
3. Citrol the front and let sit for a couple mins (if needed)
4. Rinse car
5. Spray with (the u-wash) car wash, let sit
6. Rinse car
7. Wash car (McKee's 37)
8. Combo dry and wax (TW Flex Wax)
9. Tire/wheel dressing (CGTK)
10. Blow dry nooks & crannies
11. Vacuum, interior, etc
12. Clean windows (Invisible Glass)

Also, couple (probably stupid) questions:
1. Do you use FW on the windows, wheels?
2. If so, Invisible Glass would just be on the interior glass, eh?
3. Is it worth buying applicator pads for the tires? Or can I just spray it on?

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by seoul

Also, couple (probably stupid) questions:
1. Do you use FW on the windows, wheels?
2. If so, Invisible Glass would just be on the interior glass, eh?
3. Is it worth buying applicator pads for the tires? Or can I just spray it on?

Ha, none of that is stupid! As you dig in, you'll certainly figure out different things that work better your process ... there's no right process, just a lot of wrong ones

A few thoughts:

* Can't comment on tire kicker as I haven't used it
I use Car Pro Perl which is very easy to apply with just about anything (sponge, MF, brush, etc)

* On Rag Co stuff / MFs
Boy, it's a such a personal choice but FWIW, if I had to do it all over again I'd probably standardize on TRC Gauntlets for everything In their different sizes they're great for everything: rinseless washes, drying, wheels & tires, etc. Overall I find the best thing is to just have a ton of whichever rag you choose and then seperate them for individual jobs (i.e., wheels rags are only ever used for wheels, washed separately, etc)

* To Foam or not Foam
IMO, foam is only for 2 things: (1.) Fun, (2.) Pre-soak before a contact wash. #2 is key if your vehicle was recently in the rain or went through puddles and in that case the foam can't be pH neutral; rather it has to be a road film remover (i.e., a degreaser) like Kock-Chemie GSF or Superior Products Road Warrior (or rage/dark fury). You can also use something like Purple Power or even an all-purpose cleaner. For me, if the car was rained on, this is the single biggest step. Foam on or spray on the road film remover and let it dwell for 5 min or more before rinsing off.

* Blown Away
Get a blower, even a cheap one is fine, but ideally an Ego 500+ battery powered blower. That way you can easily use it at the U-wash to blow off your car before towel drying & protecting. Primarily this is great for blowing out the gas door, mirrors, wheels, door jambs, etc, but also in getting off most of the water prior to towel drying.

On to the questions:

(1.) YES! Everything but tires.
(2.) I think of invisible glass as a finisher & 50/50 IPA as the cleaner. So for both interior & exterior I'll clean with IPA & a MF with bite, until it's clear, then finish with invisible glass. (for exterior I wash with whatever shampoo first of course)
(3.) I can't say for other than Perl which I apply with whatever is handy.

happy to give my 2 cents on any of it!

[schandok]

Hello GrussGott,

I am new to RW, but like the idea of ease and avoid paint scratches. Thanks for detailed steps.

I will be doing my 1st wash soon. Planning to use Mckee's RW & Turtle Wax Flex Wax base coat. Before applying TWFW, should I do Iron remover? (Its new car with less 400 miles).

Also, from your experience - for a X5 , how many mitts would a RW wash need? I got 5

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by schandok

Hello GrussGott,

I am new to RW, but like the idea of ease and avoid paint scratches. Thanks for detailed steps.

I will be doing my 1st wash soon. Planning to use Mckee's RW & Turtle Wax Flex Wax base coat. Before applying TWFW, should I do Iron remover? (Its new car with less 400 miles).

Also, from your experience - for a X5 , how many mitts would a RW wash need? I got 5

(1.) Iron remover can never hurt (unless you let it dry!) so if you have plenty of time, space, and water then go for it BEFORE you wash - just make sure to rinse really well

(2.) Unfortunately way more mitts than 5 to do it right IMO *if* you're going to use the only-clean-mitts method versus the two-bucket method.

said differently, the process should ideally be using 1 (or 2 - one for top & one for bottom!) mitt sides per panel ... so you count up panels

* 8, four on each side (rear, 2 doors, front)
* 2 for the hood
* 1 for the front bumper
* 1 for hatch
* 1 for the rear bumper
* 1 for the roof if you're doing that
= 14 ... so 7 mitts and if you REALLY want to do it right, double that, so 14 (each panel gets one mitts, one side for the top, one for the bottom).

This is why it's way easier to use good quality MFs like TRC's Pfuffles or everest or gauntlet that you can fold in 4ths or 8ths.

If you use MFs then you only need 3-4 or double that to 8, plus 8 to dry so 16-20 total.

You'll find out your best process though as you get into it - just remember: after spray down, use almost no pressure on the MF and in 1 direction only! so

* spray down a panel
* do your iron remover or road film remover & rinse
* pre-spray w/ mckees & dwell for few minutes
* take a MF out of the clean bucket
* do the contact wash (1 direction, lightly!, top to bottom)
------ either do the whole car this way or panel by panel ----------
* Spray a damp MF applicator sponge or MF with TWFW (2 sprays only!)
* Apply the TWFW, assess, wipe down streaks w/ a wet MF
* Buff dry

You'll giggle at the slickness. everytime you touch the car. addicting.

and so much better when you do it yourself and know every nook ... though bad for OCD

[schandok]

I got the TRC everest MFs. Sorry, to confuse them with mitts.

Thanks for sharing your wisdom. I will give a try with what I have and add more if needed.

[NCRob]

Anthony, Pan, & Grussgott. . .
All masters of the art, but I know who my vote goes to! Particularly since he’s so accessible, living right here among us. SO appreciate all your knowledge and sharing of experience and recommendations that are always so thorough and straightforward.

[GrussGott]

McKee's has a BOGO on rinseless wash, today only! I have no affiliation, just like & use the product (I like it better than ONR)

32 oz. N-914 Rinseless Wash is....

BUY ONE GET ONE FREE!

**Plus FREE SHIPPING Over $95** Offer expires at midnight on 3/10/2022. You MUST add TWO bottles to your shopping cart to take advantage of the BOGO promotion. If only one bottle is added, you will only receive one bottle. This offer cannot be combined with other promotions. Limit TWO bottles per household.