[GLU_WEIN]

Got a 2018 M5 first edition with the frozen dark red paint.. I decided to upgrade to a high kick CF spoiler. After removing the old spoiler, cleaning the 3M double sided sticky mess I was left with some pretty pronounced mark on the paint where the old spoiler was.

How do I get rid of them? Keep in mind that this is frozen paint and technically I can’t use any sort of compound, polish, or wax.

Any help will be appreciated.

[NickyC]

You don't, panel will need to be resprayed. I'd just put the old spoiler back on if the new one doesn't cover.

[GLU_WEIN]

Originally Posted by NickyC

You don't, panel will need to be resprayed. I'd just put the old spoiler back on if the new one doesn't cover.

Damn it! I wish I would have known before

[NickyC]

Originally Posted by M5_1of400

Damn it! I wish I would have known before

Us frozen paint owners always seem to learn these things AFTER we buy the cars hah!

Our paint still looks the best though.

[MADBMWX5MC]

^Damn good looking...for sure.

[BIGW0RM]

Ouch... I would be crushed.

Did you use a 3M rubber wheel to remove the double sided tape? Because if you did, that might be rubber from the the wheel that if lucky; maybe you can wipe it off with some rubbing alcohol?

But that kind of does look like its already burned paint. Oh that hurts to see.

[GLU_WEIN]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Ouch... I would be crushed.

Did you use a 3M rubber wheel to remove the double sided tape? Because if you did, that might be rubber from the the wheel that if lucky; maybe you can wipe it off with some rubbing alcohol?

But that kind of does look like its already burned paint. Oh that hurts to see.

Didn’t use the rubber wheel, I was more afraid of that wheel doing even more damage. I tried alcohol and a clay bar with little to no noticiable change.

My only options are:

- put the old spoiler back (boring)

- Buy a different spoiler that covers the marks (I don’t like the spoilers that kick almost at a 70 degree angle)

- say fuck it and repaint the trunk lid (don’t even know how much it will cost me)

So. If you have a frozen colored car let this be a warning if you are trying to upgrade your spoiler. I wish I would have done more research to learn this before I decided to upgrade.

[BIGW0RM]

Originally Posted by M5_1of400

Didn’t use the rubber wheel, I was more afraid of that wheel doing even more damage. I tried alcohol and a clau bar with little to no noticiable change.

My only options are:

- put the old spoiler back (boring)

- Buy a different spoiler that covers the marks (I don’t like the spoilers that kick almost at a 70 degree angle)

- say fuck it and repaint the trunk lid (don’t even know how much it will cost me)

So. If you have frozen colored cars let this be a warning to anybody trying to upgrade your spoiler. I wish I would have done more research to learn this before I decided to upgrade.

How unfortunate.

Id probably cut your looses and revert back to stock to hide that. Not to sound negative, but matching older matte paint would be a challenge in my opinion.

At least reverting back to stock hides it!

[GLU_WEIN]

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

How unfortunate.

Id probably cut your looses and revert back to stock to hide that. Not to sound negative, but matching older matte paint would be a challenge in my opinion.

At least reverting back to stock hides it!

You are absolutely correct, just got an estimate from a reputable body shop, they won’t touch it unless they also redo the side panels to blend it. Minimum a $3k job.

[GLU_WEIN]

Ok, I'm going to try this.

https://www.rwcarbon.com/bmw-g30-f90...k-spoiler.html

Looks like this spoiler will sit on top of the affected area covering most of it.

[NickyC]

Originally Posted by M5_1of400

Ok, I'm going to try this.

https://www.rwcarbon.com/bmw-g30-f90...k-spoiler.html

Looks like this spoiler will sit on top of the affected area covering most of it.

Nice, can't go wrong with a CS style spoiler.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by M5_1of400

- say fuck it and repaint the trunk lid (don’t even know how much it will cost me)

BMW frozen paint is the same as any other paint in that the last step is a clear-coat, it's just more matte. I would say that a reputable bodyshop could scuff that area, removing the issues, without breaking through the color, and then just matte-clear it. Shouldn't be an issue at all. The hardest part is matching the matte-clear.

[clutchdj]

Before repainting hit it with a mini buffer like rupes ibrid nano and meguiars 205 polish and work your way up in the abrasives line if necessary. You can even use a larger big foot; just tape off surrounding areas. You may be able to buff out what appears to be calcium in the paint. Then put the m5cs or m5comp rear deck lip on to cover the polished area. That should cover most of it. Just an idea before spending 3k.

[GLU_WEIN]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

BMW frozen paint is the same as any other paint in that the last step is a clear-coat, it's just more matte. I would say that a reputable bodyshop could scuff that area, removing the issues, without breaking through the color, and then just matte-clear it. Shouldn't be an issue at all. The hardest part is matching the matte-clear.

I wouldn't trust that, no way that would look good. Like I mentioned the body shop I talked to yesterday wouldn't event touch it unless they did the trunk and the side panels, and yes, they are reputable and one of the best body shops in Houston.

[GLU_WEIN]

Originally Posted by clutchdj

Before repainting hit it with a mini buffer like rupes ibrid nano and meguiars 205 polish and work your way up in the abrasives line if necessary. You can even use a larger big foot; just tape off surrounding areas. You may be able to buff out what appears to be calcium in the paint. Then put the m5cs or m5comp rear deck lip on to cover the polished area. That should cover most of it. Just an idea before spending 3k.

Spending $3k just to upgrade a spoiler is out of the equation. I would try your suggestion with the polish but I simply don't trust myself.

Yesterday I got the RWCarbon CS spoiler that looks like it would cover all of it, I rather cover it and forget about it.

[evomike]

Originally Posted by clutchdj

Before repainting hit it with a mini buffer like rupes ibrid nano and meguiars 205 polish and work your way up in the abrasives line if necessary. You can even use a larger big foot; just tape off surrounding areas. You may be able to buff out what appears to be calcium in the paint. Then put the m5cs or m5comp rear deck lip on to cover the polished area. That should cover most of it. Just an idea before spending 3k.

you cannot sand and polish matte clear coat

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by M5_1of400

I wouldn't trust that, no way that would look good. Like I mentioned the body shop I talked to yesterday wouldn't event touch it unless they did the trunk and the side panels, and yes, they are reputable and one of the best body shops in Houston.

If they would rather feather 3 panels (blend) with color they don't have to use instead of just cleaning and clearing it's a cash grab, regardless of their rep. I've been doing bodywork since 1989, and I can tell you without a doubt that blending is only needed when the color is broken through.

[evomike]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

If they would rather feather 3 panels (blend) with color they don't have to use instead of just cleaning and clearing it's a cash grab, regardless of their rep. I've been doing bodywork since 1989, and I can tell you without a doubt that blending is only needed when the color is broken through.

modern cars do not have enough clear coat to do this, once you sand the issue off you are going to need to base coat the area for a quality repair. Saying you have done bodywork since 1989 doesn't mean squat if you do not update with the times and still fix cars like its the 80's.

[GLU_WEIN]

Originally Posted by evomike

modern cars do not have enough clear coat to do this, once you sand the issue off you are going to need to base coat the area for a quality repair. Saying you have done bodywork since 1989 doesn't mean squat if you do not update with the times and still fix cars like its the 80's.

I wouldn't completely disregard ///MPhatic's opinion, being in the industry since 89 doesn't mean he is still doing body work like the 80's if anything I would trust that person even more if he's got that much experience. Not sure where he is located but if he was close by I would totally stop by for him to take a look and talk about the options.. at the end of the day any reputable shop would stand by their work and if the job doesn't look right then they better correct it until it is right.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by evomike

modern cars do not have enough clear coat to do this, once you sand the issue off you are going to need to base coat the area for a quality repair. Saying you have done bodywork since 1989 doesn't mean squat if you do not update with the times and still fix cars like its the 80's.

Hey Philly, you don't know me, so reserve judgement or risk looking like an idiot.

I don't do bodywork full time anymore, but I know it quite well, and disagree with your statement. You literally have no idea how deep the clear is on that trunk, or how deep the issue is, so it's impossible for you to say, you're just speculating. Lastly, even if the clear was broken through (unlikely), as long as the paint doesn't have flake in it you can still clear over it, as long as you don't break through. As far as I'm aware, the frozen paint that BMW uses has no flake in it, but it's possible that rubbing it directly could cause the spot to be visible, so you'd have to spot-it anyway. Still better than blending 3 panels...

[evomike]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

Hey Philly, you don't know me, so reserve judgement or risk looking like an idiot.

I don't do bodywork full time anymore, but I know it quite well, and disagree with your statement. You literally have no idea how deep the clear is on that trunk, or how deep the issue is, so it's impossible for you to say, you're just speculating. Lastly, even if the clear was broken through (unlikely), as long as the paint doesn't have flake in it you can still clear over it, as long as you don't break through. As far as I'm aware, the frozen paint that BMW uses has no flake in it, but it's possible that rubbing it directly could cause the spot to be visible, so you'd have to spot-it anyway. Still better than blending 3 panels...

so you no longer do body work but are out here giving advice on it, what I will say is I am probably the only one in this thread with training from BMW on Frozen finish and the only one who does it. You 100% will need to base coat this for a proper repair.

[evomike]

Originally Posted by M5_1of400

I wouldn't completely disregard ///MPhatic's opinion, being in the industry since 89 doesn't mean he is still doing body work like the 80's if anything I would trust that person even more if he's got that much experience. Not sure where he is located but if he was close by I would totally stop by for him to take a look and talk about the options.. at the end of the day any reputable shop would stand by their work and if the job doesn't look right then they better correct it until it is right.

we have taken on a good bit of frozen repairs that were done at "reputable shops" the truth is if you haven't done a factory frozen repair alot and do not have spray the same clear they use it will not turn out correct.