[nZtiZia]

Originally Posted by GrussGott

McKee's has a BOGO on rinseless wash, today only! I have no affiliation, just like & use the product (I like it better than ONR)

32 oz. N-914 Rinseless Wash is....

BUY ONE GET ONE FREE!

**Plus FREE SHIPPING Over $95** Offer expires at midnight on 3/10/2022. You MUST add TWO bottles to your shopping cart to take advantage of the BOGO promotion. If only one bottle is added, you will only receive one bottle. This offer cannot be combined with other promotions. Limit TWO bottles per household.

it's safe to use on coated matte paint, but is it ok to use on ceramic coated matte ppf?

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

it's safe to use on coated matte paint, but is it ok to use on ceramic coated matte ppf?

I have ... I mean if it's not your ceramic product would be pretty shit right?

[Luminor513]

Originally Posted by GrussGott

Neither is your mom Todd, but I still gently clean her first too sooo

This is the thread winning post.

[nZtiZia]

Originally Posted by GrussGott

I have ... I mean if it's not your ceramic product would be pretty shit right?

i just didn't know if the product would behave differently on ceramic coated matte ppf versus ceramic coated matte paint

gyeon is pretty good. still getting excellent water beading 14 months after initial application

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by nZtiZia

i just didn't know if the product would behave differently on ceramic coated matte ppf versus ceramic coated matte paint

gyeon is pretty good. still getting excellent water beading 14 months after initial application

Sure - just pointing out that the whole point of ceramic is to resist chemical & road film damage so it should be pretty impervious to just about anything, at least for awhile, even including harsher chemicals like Iron Removers, APCs, highly alkaline cleaners, acidic stuff like pollen & bird poo, etc thus a mild cleaner that removes dirt should be like a gnat on an elephant to a good ceramic.

I've seen people who thought their ceramic was failing because it no longer was beading water only to find out they just weren't cleaning off the road film with strong enough chemicals, i.e., they were using pH neutral shampoos

The thing with pH neutral shampoos is, they're good at lubrication like any soap, but they don't chemically clean at all, meaning they don't & won't emulsify road film because it's a mix of oil / hydrocarbons that repels water. So what happens is, the soap cleans the dirt out of the road film making it invisible, but otherwise just smears it all over your car making it appear your protection has failed when it hasn't ... especially for vehicles that drive in rain and/or snow a lot.

It's pretty easy to "recharge" ceramic by using increasing mixtures of an alkaline cleaner to remove the road film.

Some ceramic makers claim the only way to make it fail is to buff it off, but I've never found that to be true if you really hit it with, say, a tar remover 5x in a row. Eventually, with the right chemicals, you can kill a ceramic, but if it's a remotely decent product it's pretty hard.

I'd feel pretty safe using Road Warrior 4:1 as an example, but if you're worried you could go 10:1.

Net-net:
It usually is, and should be pretty hard to kill ceramic ... which is why, in general, I don't use it!

[jjcools]

So much good info here

[SplendidCamel]

Makes sense.

This should be faster than the two bucket method as well. It takes time to wring the dirty mitt, grit guard it in the rinse bucket, wring it again, manually inspect for grit, then get more soap from the clean bucket. I'm all for making the process faster.

In the past I used a waterless and rinse-less process with ONR and Chemical Guys EcoSmart Waterless Wash and Wax. I had a few straight lines in the clear coat from pulling grit across the paint. It just takes a single piece of sand in the towel to cut into the clear coat. Doing a waterless wash during the Northeast winter was a risky proposition.

As I read it, the method you describe combines a pre-rinse like the two bucket approach with the single use towel from the waterless/rinse-less process. The method adds a spray-on sealant drying aid.

Combining the three gallon jug with de-ionized water and a battery washer-wand is intriguing. (No garden hose hook-up required.) Since your blower is battery powered as well, you don't need access to an electrical outlet when doing the wash.

I always find that the wheels are the toughest area to clean. I am paranoid about getting the wheel cleaning supplies anywhere near the body panel towels. Do you find that it is ok to wash the wheel towels with the body panel towels?

Do you have any suggestions for hand washing a car in the winter when the roads are covered with salt and sand?

[malvern_man]

Originally Posted by SplendidCamel

I always find that the wheels are the toughest area to clean. I am paranoid about getting the wheel cleaning supplies anywhere near the body panel towels. Do you find that it is ok to wash the wheel towels with the body panel towels?

I use separate everything for cleaning my wheels including 2 buckets just for the wheels. You mention using wheel towels, I never use towels I use a dedicated wheel mitt, I have a few but my go to wheel mitt is by Garage Therapy. I also use Wheel Woolies and ultra soft detailing brushes. Nothing I use for my wheels goes anywhere near the bodywork.

[ukk]

I found this thread incredibly informative for car washing and this thread for leather cleaning. Thanks for all the insightful info.

Context

I had recently bought a Carbon Black X5, and plan to wash the car myself at a monthly cadence. The paint has been ceramic coated using CQuartz SiC. I have the ability to wash the car in my driveway as there is a hose bibb located to the side of the garage. I have a Karcher pressure washer with adjustable pressure settings and I purchased a Karcher suction hose (SH5) to be able to use de-ionized water to spray down the car as suggested in this thread.

I was planning to use the CarPro Reset shampoo (second step in steps mentioned for "homes with water" in the first post), but I need to consider alternatives as my city recommends using a car wash or water-less methods to minimize pollutants flowing into the storm drains as stormwater is untreated.

So I now plan to use McKees rinseless wash to minimize the amount of water and pollutants that can flow into the storm drain adjacent to my drive way.

Below are the steps that I plan to follow.

Steps

1. Spray the car down with de-ionized water using a pressure washer.
2. Wash each panel in one direction with a microfiber mitt using Mckee's rinseless solution.
3. Spray the car down with de-ionized water using a pressure washer.
4. Use an Ego leaf blower to blow dry the car.
5. Use a microfiber towel to buff dry each panel.

My (ignorant) washing questions

1. For a rinseless wash, is it important to do Step 5 immediately after Step 2 for each panel, and should Step 3 and 4 be eliminated?
2. In case Step 2 is replaced with "shampooing the car and washing panel by panel", can we wait until the end to rinse off the car all at once, instead of rinsing panel by panel?

Now, my second question above is for times when I plan to take my car to a self-serve car wash occasionally.

Overall Question
My city says "avoid washing or pressure washing cars in driveways" to prevent storm water pollution. The city's compliance efforts related to vehicle washing primarily focus on commercial entities/businesses. Reducing residential vehicle washing activity involves mostly regional outreach and education efforts that identify alternatives to washing directly into storm drainage systems.

I am thinking pressure washing + rinseless washing the car on my driveway should be okay, but I might be wrong, and would greatly appreciate other folks' thoughts on this.

[Shllshck]

ukk Man, we’re doing all the same things. I’m still researching PPF and ceramic options. I read through this post awhile ago and I have to admit, with the new X6, I decided to switch from the good old two bucket system. I’ve ordered like 8 new wash pads, half being the 70/30 microfiber pads and the other half, decided to try the microfiber madness incredipads.

[malvern_man]

Originally Posted by ukk

I found this thread incredibly informative for car washing and this thread for leather cleaning. Thanks for all the insightful info.

Context

I had recently bought a Carbon Black X5, and plan to wash the car myself at a monthly cadence. The paint has been ceramic coated using CQuartz SiC. I have the ability to wash the car in my driveway as there is a hose bibb located to the side of the garage. I have a Karcher pressure washer with adjustable pressure settings and I purchased a Karcher suction hose (SH5) to be able to use de-ionized water to spray down the car as suggested in this thread.

I was planning to use the CarPro Reset shampoo (second step in steps mentioned for "homes with water" in the first post), but I need to consider alternatives as my city recommends using a car wash or water-less methods to minimize pollutants flowing into the storm drains as stormwater is untreated.

So I now plan to use McKees rinseless wash to minimize the amount of water and pollutants that can flow into the storm drain adjacent to my drive way.

Below are the steps that I plan to follow.

Steps

1. Spray the car down with de-ionized water using a pressure washer.
2. Wash each panel in one direction with a microfiber mitt using Mckee's rinseless solution.
3. Spray the car down with de-ionized water using a pressure washer.
4. Use an Ego leaf blower to blow dry the car.
5. Use a microfiber towel to buff dry each panel.

My (ignorant) washing questions

1. For a rinseless wash, is it important to do Step 5 immediately after Step 2 for each panel, and should Step 3 and 4 be eliminated?
2. In case Step 2 is replaced with "shampooing the car and washing panel by panel", can we wait until the end to rinse off the car all at once, instead of rinsing panel by panel?

Now, my second question above is for times when I plan to take my car to a self-serve car wash occasionally.

Overall Question
My city says "avoid washing or pressure washing cars in driveways" to prevent storm water pollution. The city's compliance efforts related to vehicle washing primarily focus on commercial entities/businesses. Reducing residential vehicle washing activity involves mostly regional outreach and education efforts that identify alternatives to washing directly into storm drainage systems.

I am thinking pressure washing + rinseless washing the car on my driveway should be okay, but I might be wrong, and would greatly appreciate other folks' thoughts on this.

To answer you question about taking your car to a self serve car wash my answer would be no, no, no, no...unless of course you want to ruin your paintwork and ceramic coating the first time you go there. Foaming brushes...holy shit...they should be banned from the planet, how much dirt and grit from other cars is trapped in the bristles, you'd be safer using sand paper to clean your car. Plus, what chemicals are being used in the products that are being used, here in the UK these type of car washes use the strongest products available which end up staining and ruining your paintwork.

As for storm water pollution, a lot of today's products are biodegradable and are safe to go into the drains.

Rinseless washes...I'm on the fence about these, I'm a member of a few car cleaning forums and some people love them and others hate them, I don't think I'd ever used one as I'd be to afraid of damaging the paintwork, plus you can't beat the satisfaction of giving your car a proper clean.

[ukk]

Shllshck, totally agree! I have already placed an order for MF mitts, towels and pads from Microfiber Madness.

Thanks malvern_man for your advice. I was planning to use my own cleaning products and equipment when using the self-serve facility, and go there during night time (they are open 24 hours) so that I am not hustled. Now, I will actually visit the facility to check out how others are washing their cars; 100% agree that foaming brushes is a no-no, and one should take care not to use their equipment.

The Carpro Reset US site mentions "Derived almost entirely from natural, organic and biodegradable ingredients; free from the harsh sodium and lauryl sulfate derivatives found in many shampoo products." which is promising.

Will try out the McKees N-914 rinseless wash on my older metallic gray car to assess the results for myself. In addition to this thread, even the detailer who applied the ceramic coating recommended this product if I needed to wash the car with less water. If there are no constraints, then giving the car a proper clean is definitely the way to go!

[Abune]

I do in easy way on my x6 2022
- Prewash with pressure water to take off dirty.
- Apply soft and wash.
- Pressure water again
- Dry it by soft tower
Done. Just 30minutes.
I dont want spend alot time for washing.

[malvern_man]

Originally Posted by Abune

I do in easy way on my x6 2022
- Prewash with pressure water to take off dirty.
- Apply soft and wash.
- Pressure water again
- Dry it by soft tower
Done. Just 30minutes.
I dont want spend alot time for washing.

Hi,

What is...

• Apply soft and wash?
• Dry it by soft tower?

I'm in the UK so I've never heard of the above two phrases.

[asparmar]

Hi, don't mean to hijack the thread on this, but appreciate some advice. Was wondering what's a good ceramic sealant that's easy to put on manually (easy to apply), that gives the best shine and lasts about a month+? Looking for something I can quickly apply onto the car one a month after washing and drying.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

[malvern_man]

Originally Posted by asparmar

Hi, don't mean to hijack the thread on this, but appreciate some advice. Was wondering what's a good ceramic sealant that's easy to put on manually (easy to apply), that gives the best shine and lasts about a month+? Looking for something I can quickly apply onto the car one a month after washing and drying.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

If you've got a pressure washer and a foam cannon then there are lots of spray on rinse off products on the market and they'll give you more than 1 months protection.

If you've not got a foam cannon then I'd suggest that you look into ceramic detailing sprays such as Gyeon ceramic detailer or Gyeon Can Coat. There's lots of other ceramic/Si02 detailing sprays on the market.

[schandok]

Originally Posted by asparmar

Hi, don't mean to hijack the thread on this, but appreciate some advice. Was wondering what's a good ceramic sealant that's easy to put on manually (easy to apply), that gives the best shine and lasts about a month+? Looking for something I can quickly apply onto the car one a month after washing and drying.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

I am satisfied with Turtle wax flex wax. For the effort required its pretty good shine and protection.
Application is very easy.

[Abune]

Originally Posted by malvern_man

Hi,

What is...

• Apply soft and wash?
• Dry it by soft tower?

I'm in the UK so I've never heard of the above two phrases.

Originally Posted by malvern_man

Hi,

What is...

• Apply soft and wash?
• Dry it by soft tower?

I'm in the UK so I've never heard of the above two phrases.

You can use any soap products.
I dont use blow air dry, only soft tower and it works well.

[GrussGott]

Originally Posted by malvern_man

If you've got a pressure washer and a foam cannon then there are lots of spray on rinse off products on the market and they'll give you more than 1 months protection.

If you've not got a foam cannon then I'd suggest that you look into ceramic detailing sprays such as Gyeon ceramic detailer or Gyeon Can Coat. There's lots of other ceramic/Si02 detailing sprays on the market.

I don't think you need a foam cannon for spray-on-rinse-off products, at least here in the US. Example, McKees has tons of them like this one which are garden hose only.

If you're going to use something as a drying aide (i.e., you washed the car, it's wet, now you're going to spray on some lubrication dry it) then TW Flex Wax is great! Sealant & drying aide. I basically use it every wash.